STAMPING TECHNIQUES
    original compilation by Eileen Hochstein
    with other items shared by many individuals

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    TRADITIONAL – SOLID STAMPING

    1. Press the stamp on the ink pad to ink the rubber image.
    2. Stamp on the paper, pressing firmly and evenly, being careful not to rock or slide.  With many
    different colors of ink pads, one stamp can go a long way.
     

    TWO-STEP STAMPING

    1.  Ink larger, bolder stamp with lighter color.  Stamp image.
    2. Ink smaller, detailed stamp in darker color & stamp image over the first image.  This
    technique creates beautiful, easy stamping in seconds.
     

    COLORBOOK

    1.  Ink up outline image in a solid color
    2.  Color in design with markers, colored pencils, chalks, or watercolors.
     

    BRUSH MARKER

    1.  Using markers, apply ink directly to the stamp.
    2.  Breathe (huff) on stamp to remoisten ink, then stamp on paper.  Markers allow you to
    create a personalized, multicolored image.
     

    MASKING

    1.  Stamp image onto card.  On a piece of scratch paper, stamp again & cut out the image.
    2.  Lay the scratch paper image over the card image.  Stamp the next image over the scratch
    paper image.  After pulling the scratch paper image away, you will have two layered, interacting
    images.
     

    OMITTING

    1.  Markers make it possible to omit parts of the stamp image.  With a clean stamp, color
    only the part of the stamp that you want to show.
    2.  Stamp on paper.  The technique makes your stamp more versatile.
     

    RAINBOW INK PADS

    1.  Rainbow pads are multicolored stamp pads.  By changing the position of the stamp on
    the pad, multiple rainbow colors can be created using one pad.
    2.  When using a small stamp image, you can get five individual colors using only one pad.
     

    TIE-DYED

    1.  Take a Kleenex tissue & wad it up at one end & leave enough for you to hold at the other end.
    2.  Using a Kaleidacolor ink pad, take a wad of Kleenex tissue & stamp it on the pad.... covering
    at least 2-3 colors.
    3.  Then take inked Kleenex tissue & stamp onto light colored cardstock.
    4.  Repeat steps 2 & 3 until entire surface is covered.
    5.  This gives a great tie-dyed look.  You can use a single color pad &/or put another color on
    top of that.  This allows for versatility.
     

    Rollagraph® & WHEELS

    Insert the ink cartridge into the handle, then snap in the wheel.  Remove the lid of the cartridge
    (cartridge will slide up to fit snugly against wheel.)  Ink the wheel either by turning the wheel
    by hand holding it by the very edges or on scratch paper first for even distribution of the ink.
    Replace the cartridge lid when finished. With even pressure, roll the wheel across the paper.
    Try on scratch paper FIRST, it can be tricky.  Try rolling away from you, don't block your
    arm, it will make you tilt.  Or try pulling the wheel towards you.  Creates fun, continuous
    images in seconds!
     

    Mini Rollagraph® & Wheels


    Ink cartridges are PERMANENT in these Mini Rollagraph Handles.  Just snap in the wheel
    of your choice and  ink the wheel either by turning the wheel by hand holding it by the very
    edges or on scratch paper first for even distribution of the ink. With even light pressure, roll
    the wheel across the paper. Try on scratch paper FIRST, it can be tricky if you push to hard.
    Try rolling away from you, don't block your arm with your body, it will make you tilt.  Or try
    pulling the wheel towards you.  Creates fun, continuous images in seconds!
     

    COLOR DABBING

    This is a technique that gives you just a hint of color to a stamped design.
    1.  Stamp a design onto cardstock.  Using a Dauber-Duo, add touches of color to elements
    in the image. Be creative & see where you add color & how much.
    2.  You can use a Dauber-Duo to flick the edges of cards for a “framed” look.
     

    KISSING

    1.  Ink up a background stamp....making sure that it is inked up well.  Take another stamp,
    a bold/solid stamp, place it on top of the background stamp....effectively using the
    background stamp as the ink pad. (ex: Ink up your Antique Cracking background stamp.
    Then take the big birdhouse stamp & place it down on the background stamp.  Your
    birdhouse is now inked with the pattern of the background stamp.  Huff on this if this
    process is taking awhile, & then apply to cardstock.  You should have a Antique
    Cracking Birdhouse!
     

    REPEATING AN IMAGE – FADING OUT

    This method will give the sense of depth or a sense of movement....depending on what
    stamp you use.
    1.  Ex: Tree - Ink tree up with a green ink pad.  Stamp with it more than once before
    inking it up once again. Ex: Bird - Ink bird up with a color of your choice.  Stamp
    with it more than once, close together for a sense of movement.
     

    STREAKING

    Thoroughly apply ink to a rubber stamp.  Stamp the stamping surface (do not use
    glossy paper!).  Without lifting the stamp from the stamping surface, pull it in the
    opposite direction of the way the image should appear to be going.  This streaking
    effect gives the illusion of motion.
     
     

    LOOSE GLITTER

    1.  On a previously stamped image, use the Two-Way Glue pen to apply glue
    where you want the glitter.
    2.  Sprinkle loose glitter on the image, pour off excess glitter, putting it back
    into the jar.  This technique adds glitz to any card.
     

    GLITTER & LACE BACKGROUND

    For a basic card:
    Cardstock * Sticker Paper * Lace * 1 Dark Shade of Glitter * 1 Light Shade of Glitter
    1.  Cut your sticker paper into 1/4 sheets.  Pull the protective backing off the sticker
    paper to reveal the sticky area.
    2.  Stick a piece of lace to the sticker paper & smooth it down firmly.
    3.  Pour a dark shade of glitter all over the card, making sure the whole thing is covered.
     Shake off extra.
    4.  Strip lace off of card.
    5.  Next pour light shade of glitter all over card.  It will stick to the areas that do not
    have the dark glitter.  Shake off excess glitter.
    6.  Spray seal your glitter with hairspray.
    7.  Tack down onto folded cardstock or whatever your project may be.
     

    GLITTER WINDOW

    Clear Window Sheet (1/4 size – postcard size)
    Black Pigment Ink
    Open Image – ex: Stained Glass set
    Glue with small nozzle on end
    1. Stamp image onto the window sheet with black pigment ink, heat set the ink!
    2. Fill in an area in the image with glue & do one area at a time.
    3. When area is filled with glue, put glitter on & dump off the excess glitter.
    4. Continue to fill in each area.
    5. When dry put the card together.  The card should have an opening to create a
    window frame.  Glitter side should be facing down.
     

    GLITTER/Candle Stamping

    1.  Pour Dazzling Diamonds glitter onto a sheet of paper…..spread it out a little.
    2.  Take a rubber stamp (bold outline, like Flutterbys) & stamp into the glitter.
    3.  Check to make sure stamp is evenly coated, tap if there is too much.
    4.  Heat your candle with hair dryer or heat tool until just warm.
    5.  Stamp directly onto the candle using even firm pressure. You might have
    to roll the candle a little to get the entire image on. Raise your stamp and admire!!
     

    LIQUID APPLIQUE

    1.  Using Liquid Applique, apply directly to stamped area where you want a 3-D look.
    2.  Apply heat, using a blow dryer or heat tool & watch the Liquid Applique rise,
    leaving a puffed look.  *Heat immediately for an uneven puff look or wait until it is
    dry for an even puff look.
    3.  Draw your own flowers, words or accents with Liquid Applique.
     

    LEATHER TEXTURE – SUEDE EFFECT

    1.  Squirt an ample amount of Liquid Applique onto wax paper.  Roll rubber brayer
    over the applique so it evenly coats the brayer.  Roll onto cardstock & cover evenly.
    Heat with a heat tool or blow dryer for a nice soft feel & look.    **You can also
    sponge Liquid Applique onto stamps.... stamp on cardstock....heat image on card.
     

    LIQUID APPLIQUE/With Cloud Stencil

    1.  Experiment mixing Liquid Applique colors on wax paper to get just the right texture.
    2.  Mix 1 drop of light blue into white Liquid Applique.
    3.  To create wispy clouds: place the cloud stencil at top of card.
    4.  Dip stamping sponge into Liquid Applique mix.
    5.  Brush away from cloud stencil.
    6.  Repeat, shift stencil...move around & down card.  Heat with heat tool.
    * Note: To make velveteen hillsides...mix green colors & do the same.
     

    COLORED PENCILS

    1.  When using colored pencils start with lighter color first & work towards
    darker colors for shading.
    2.  Let colors overlap & blend in interesting shades.  It is more effective to
    apply several light coats of pencil shadings, adding more until the desired
    intensity is reached, rather than one very heavy application.
    3.  Stray marks can be erased with an art eraser.
     

    SKELETON LEAVES

    Use a skeleton leaf to make a pattern on your card.  You may purchase leaves
    at a craft store or create your own by soaking them in a solution of 2 parts
    bleach to 1 part water.
    1.  The best time to bleach/skeletonize leaves is when they are green.
    2.  Sponge over the leaf with ink to make a copy of it on the card.
     

    EGGSHELL CRACKLE

    What you need:
    Heavy White Cardstock (back of Glossy works fine) Pastels or Markers
    Eggshell Crackle Medium from Folk Art  Paint Brush or Sponge Brush
    Basic Black Ink Pad    Pigment Ink or Gel Stains
    Paper Towels    Sponge Daubers
    Directions:
    1.  Stamp image with Basic Black ink pad (must be waterproof ink).  Let dry.
    2.  Color image with pastels or markers.
    3.  Brush the “first step” of Eggshell Crackle all over image.  Let dry.  Do another
    coat & let that dry.
    4.  Brush the “second step” of Eggshell Crackle.  Let dry.  Now you will see the crackle.
    5.  Take a pigment ink (one that will match a color used to color in your image).  Use
    something dark or a brown gel stain....rub on then rub off.
    6.  Color will remain in the cracks & show off the crackle.  You now have an old fashioned
    crackled Porcelain look.
    (Remember when using the crackle 2-step mediums, to clean your brush between coats.
    This will ruin your brushes if you do not clean them.)
     

    GLASS STAMPING

    1.  Lightly dust the area to be stamped with Static Magic (a little cloth bag filled with powder).
    This keeps the embossing powder off of any place you don’t want it.
    2.  Stamp with a Colorbox ink pad.  *If you don’t like the image, simply wipe it away with
    a damp paper towel.
    3.  When you get an image you like, sprinkle it with embossing powder & heat it up.  The key
    to glass is to KEEP THE HEAT GUN MOVING at all times.  You don not want it to get too
    hot in one spot.  It does take a bit longer to heat up then paper & takes patience.  You want
    to let it cool before going on to the next spot.  You may find it easier to work on 2 or more
    glass pieces at a time....while one is cooling, you could work on another one.
    4.  You can color in an image if you wish.  Color it in with waterbased markers.  This gives
    it a “stained glass” effect.
    5.  If you have colored in the image you will want to seal it with clear acrylic spray.
    **Be sure glass is very clean (alcohol is good).
    **Do not handle it too much.  Oil from your hands can transfer to the glass.
    ** When using glass ball ornaments.....the frosted glass balls work the best
    **Do not overheat or you risk burning yourself.
    If you can't find things that are pre frosted, you can do it yourself with Armor’s Etching
    cream (in crafts stores) or Etch-All (www.etchall.com).  Follow etching instructions on
    the package.....please wear protective gloves when etching.  Also work in a well-ventilated
    area.  You may consider wearing a painters mask.
     

    GHOSTING – Resist without Embossing

    You need: Rubber Stamps * Ultrasmooth White Cardstock * Brayer *
    Embossing Ink * Single Color Dye-Based Ink Pad.
    1. Find a stamp image of swirls, snowflakes, bold images or shadow like images, etc.)
    2. Ink the stamp with embossing ink & stamp with it.  Do this several times on the card.
    3. Do not apply embossing powder or heat.
    4. Ink the brayer with the single color dye-based ink pad, then roll it over the card.  The
    embossing ink acts as a resist, the images will appear as more color is applied.
    5. You can leave this as is or this can be stamped or embossed in a complementary or
    contrasting color.
     

    GOLD ENCORE RESIST

    1. Stamp a bold image with Encore Gold Metallic Ink onto white glossy cardstock.
    2. Take a paper towel & rub all the gold off.
    3. Take a brayer & roll it into a Kaleidacolor ink pad & roll onto the glossy paper.
    The gold images show though the rainbow ink.  It only works with the gold & not the
    other metallic inks.
     

    RUBBER CEMENT RESIST

    You need: Rubber Cement * Soft Rubber Brayer * Markers or Rainbow Pad *
    Sticker paper * Glossy card stock * Rubber cement eraser
    Steps:
    1. Brush rubber cement onto the center area of a card and allow it to dry.
    2. Ink a rubber brayer with a multi-colored stamp pad or brush art markers,
    then roll the brayer over the card several times.
    3. Once the ink has dried, rub the rubber cement off with a rubber cement
    pick-up eraser or your fingers.
    The same technique can be used by first coloring the card with a multi-colored
    brayer, applying rubber cement as before, and then applying a layer of black
    ink or another solid color with the brayer. Remove the rubber cement for a
    dramatic look.  In both cases, a pre-stamped cut-out image was then placed
    in the center area where the rubber cement had been removed.
     

    SEALING WAX

    1.  Trim the wick of the sealing wax.  Light & let drip into a puddle. Let it sit
    for about 5 seconds.
    2.  Ink up your small image in an embossing pad (metallics look great) &
    stamp into wax puddle.
    3.  Hold for about 3-5 seconds & lift straight up.
    The ink keeps the stamp from sticking to the wax.  Some people use oil
    but the ink adds a little color & pizzazz.
     

    MELTED CRAYON BACKGROUND

    1. Take bits of crayons & place on paper or fabric
    2. Cover with waxed paper.
    3. Cover with another sheet of paper & a thin cotton cloth.
    4. Using an iron, set to medium heat, slowly melt the bits of crayon by
    moving the iron in circular motions around the cloth.
    5. When you think the crayon bits have been melted, carefully lift the
    cloth & top sheet of paper to examine.  If not melted completely, recover & iron again.
    If using on fabric….muslin is perfect & light enough to tack onto a card.  Follow
    directions above.  Stamp onto the crayon melted fabric with Black Fabrico Ink Pad….a
    bold lined open image works great (like flower, Christmas tree, etc.), heat set.  Use
    crayon colors that would look good for the image you plan on using.  Cut out a square
    around the image & tack down onto the front of your card.
     

    COMPUTER IRON-ON TRANSFER

    *Suggestion - do not do this on canvas, it really doesn’t work too well.
    Transfer paper isn’t cheap but you can do a lot with just one sheet of 8 1/2 by 11.

    You Need: 100% Cotton Fabric * Basic Black Ink Pad * Scissors *
    Computer Iron-on Transfer Paper * Iron * Markers - regular waterbased markers
    Directions:
    1.  Wash the fabric without fabric softener.  Iron out any wrinkles if any.
    2.  Stamp your image(s) with the black ink pad on to the transfer paper.  Color in
    the image(s) with markers.  Shade with deeper colors in the same color family if you want to.
    3.  Cut close to the image leaving about 1/4 “ around it & a little tag (as a finger grip).
     Fold the tag back to the backside of the image.
    4.  Place the image upside down onto fabric & iron in a circular motion.... counting to 10.
    Lift off the iron, pull up on the little tag that you’ve folded back.  Pull up the entire backing
    of the image.  You have now transferred your image onto the fabric.
    **Note:  If you hold the iron too long onto the fabric, the backing will stick to the fabric
    & not come off.  Also if you don’t hold it down long enough, the image will peel off.
     

    VELVET STAMPING – EMBOSSED VELVET

    You Need:
    Velvet (acetate/rayon) Dry Iron
    Squirt Bottle with Water
    Stamps (bold works best)
    Directions:
    1.  Set your iron on the “wool setting’ (usually the hottest setting).
    2.  Lightly spray the back side of your velvet with water.
    3.  Place your stamp face up on your work surface.
    4.  Place the velvet, right side down on top of your stamp & hold for approximately
    30-45 seconds.
    5.  Presto....you’re image is complete.
    Hints:
    * Bold stamps work best.
    *  Make sure the velvet is made of acetate/rayon or silk - NOT COTTON/POLYESTER.
    *  Some irons have steam holes on the bottom of the iron.  So it may be necessary to
    reposition your iron so that the holes are not directly over your larger stamps.
    *  It is necessary to cut around your stamp images close to the image so that the iron
    doesn’t pick up the edges of the rubber.
    *  Let your stamp cool down before stamping with it again.
     

    PAINTED VELVET

    You need:
    Light Colored Velvet (acetate/rayon or silk)
    Big, Bold Definitely Decorative Stamps * Stampin’ Write Markers * Iron
    Directions:
    1.  Color your stamps with the Stampin’ Write markers.
    2.  Lay the stamps on a table with the colored rubber side facing up.
    3.  Carefully place the velvet over the stamps.
    4.  Place the hot iron on top of the stamped area & hold for 30 seconds.

    **Tips**
    This technique is for cards & decorative purposes, not for wearables.  The markers are
    not colorfast. You can use color on dark velvets, too!  It is recommended that you use
    Colorbox Metallic Ink Pads. To not get a print from the seam holes in an iron, use the
    back part of the iron where there are no holes. You may also use a Teflon pressing cloth
    or just move the iron the entire time.
     

    AIR ART GUN

    There are a number of uses for this little gadget.  Use it in place of a speckle stamp....
    use it after using stencils like Dots & Stripes....great for backgrounds.  Use with
    markers or Zig Painty Pens.
     

    AIR ART GUN/THUMPING

    1.  Ink your bold stamp up with a light colored ink pad.
    2.  Spritz a darker color on the image with the air gun.
    3.  Repeat with other colors if you wish.
    (ex:  DD Fruits - ink pear stamp with yellowish color & then spray the pear
     with a darker green color.)
     

    AIRBRUSHED WATERCOLOR

    1.  Spray a piece of cardstock with water from a mister.
    2.  Use the air gun to spray several colors from your markers all over the paper.
    This blends the colors into each other for a pretty background.
     

    WATER MIST

    1.  Instead of huffing your image before stamping, spray a very fine mist of water
    (a little spritz will do from about 12” away) over your stamp, then stamp image on
    cardstock.  This will give it a somewhat muted watercolor effect.  You can spray
    a few times, the ink lasts longer than you would expect.  The image will continue
    to get lighter, but combined with the original “bright” stamped image, it adds depth
    to your project. (Variation:  Some people mist the paper & not the stamp.  If there
    is too much water….lightly mop up with a paper towel.)
     

    WATERCOLOR/Grabbing Color

    Watercolor with markers, ink pads, watercolor paints, watercolor pencils or
    even acrylic paints.  Use a wet watercolor paint brush or blender pen.
    1.  Markers:  Make a palette with markers & pick up color with a paint brush
    or blender pen.
    2.  Ink Pads: From the lid of an ink pad...pick up color with a paint brush or blender pen.
    3.  Watercolor Paints:  Pick up color with a paint brush.
    4.  Watercolor Pencils:  Color in an area of a stamped image.  Take a damp paint
    brush or blender pen to draw the color out. For cards or other craft projects you
    may water down acrylic paint & paint it with it.  You can even do the same with
    Fabrico & Encore Ink Refills.
     

    WATERCOLOR PENCILS

    Allow for soft graduated shading and professional looking blending effects.
    Embossed designs look beautiful when shaded with colored pencils.  Watercolor
    pencils are more versatile than regular colored pencils.  You have the option of
    creating colored pencil effects.  Colored pencils can be used only for coloring in
    an already stamped design.  They cannot be used directly on your stamps.
     

    Applying & Blending Watercolor Pencils

    When using colored pencils start with lighter colors first and work to the darker.
    Let the colors overlap and blend for interesting shades It is more effective to apply
    several light coats of pencil shadings, adding more until the desired intensity is
    reached, rather than one very heavy application. Stray marks can be erased with
    an art eraser.
    Creating Watercolor Effects (optional)
    Once the coloring is completed, you can stop here, or achieve different effects
    by adding water.  Color your image with dry pencils, blending and shading as
    desired. Dampen a paintbrush with water and paint over colored areas. A
    barely damp brush gives brighter color, with pencil lines showing. Adding more
    water will blend the colors more smoothly. The more water you add, the less
    intense your colors will be. But adding excessive amounts of water will cause
    the colors to run together, and the paper to buckle. Blend the colors instead
    by stroking with a blender pen, eliminating the need for brush or water.  You
    will find that this is a great use of the blender pen!

    Watercolor Techniques

    Watercolor pencils give you professional looking results with the benefits
    of ease in use, lots of pigment, reasonable price, and the use of a fine point
    for coloring small areas.
    1.  Use with a palette: rub a pencil tip on a piece of paper, building up pigment.
    Use a damp brush or blender pen to pick up pigment and add to your art. This
    is a great way to mix colors.
    2.  For bright bold colors, take the pigment directly from your pencil tip. Dip
    your brush in water and press to the tip of the pencil. This will give you undiluted
    pigment for strong colors.
    3.  A thick opaque look can be achieved by dipping the pencil tip in water and
    applying the color wet.
    4.  Dry use of watercolor pencils to color stamped images on dark paper or on
    velour paper gives beautiful results.
     

    ENCORE WATERCOLOR

    1. Emboss an image using metallic embossing powder (this sets off the
    Encore watercolor shimmer).
    2. In a palette use a drop of Encore refill & add a little water.
    3. Apply to image with a lightly wet paint brush.
     

    PIGMENT INK WATERCOLORING

    Make a palette with pigment ink refills or simply take a lightly wet paint brush
    & apply it to the ink pad. You’re ready to paint! This includes Colorbox & Fabrico inks.
     

    RADIANT PEARLS WATERCOLORING

    Make a palett of Radiant Pearls on an old CD or pick up the color from the lids of
    the jars directly with a watercolor brush, H2O brush or blender pen.

    DIE-CUTS

    1.  Place a die-cut shape down onto cardstock - use the 2-way glue pen on the
    back of the die-cut & let it dry before placing the die-cut down....this will make
    it repositionable (like post-it notes glue).
    2.  Use the air gun & spritz colors around the images....when done lift the die-cuts
    off & you now have fancy silhouettes of the shapes.
    3.  Instead of using the air gun you can also use the stamping sponge around the shape.
    Use a single shape on a card or several on a full sheet for a memory page.
     

    CHALKING - PASTELS

    The best choices for papers & cardstocks are smooth, & uncoated.  Chalk can also
    be applied to wood, paperclay, paper mache & other porous surfaces.  If there are
    any mistakes to fix....use a small white or art gum eraser.  To prevent smears you canl
    seal the chalk but I find after the first brushing off it doesn't seem to smear any longer.
    To seal you can use matte spray fixative or hair spray (hold 8-10" away).

    Shading:
    May be used wet or dry.  Blue, Grey or Black are good color choices for shadows.
    Layer colors.  Start with the lighter color & apply a deeper color of the same tone
    on top of the lighter shades.

    Reverse Chalk Resist:
    Using black (or dark) cardstock as your base, rub chalk all over it, creating a
    background. (use a dauber duo or cotton ball) Ink up your stamp on the
    VersaMark pad, then stamp into the chalk -- the VersaMark removes the
    chalk where the image is.

    Chalked Embossing:
    Chalk will stick to embossing powders, especially white.  For best results start
    by stamping on dark colored cardstock in the frost white Colorbox & embossing
    in any of our white embossing powders.  Apply the chalk to the white areas of
    your stamped image.  After chalking rub with a eraser to get rid of the powdery
    look & make the image shine.

    Chalked Applique:
    Using the white Liquid Applique, embellish the details of your work.  Allow it to
    dry before puffing it up with a heat tool & then apply chalk to it.  It picks up the
    color & holds.

    Chalked Sponging:
    Using sponges & chalks with your stencils will give you beautiful soft clouds,
    muted dots & stripes & gently blended backgrounds.

    Chalked Pigment:
    Stamp a solid image in white pigment ink on a dark cardstock.  Let it dry &
    then color lightly with chalks.

    Chalked Silhouette:
    This method works best with bold images.  Example using SU DD Grapes -
    Stamp the leaves in green & the grapes in purple.  Apply the same shades to
    chalk over the images.  This will give it a soft airbrushed feel to them.

    Marbled Chalk Background:
    Put about an inch of water into a pan slightly bigger than your card. With
    a butter knife, scrape chalk dust off a 2 or 3 colors onto the surface of the
    water. Place the paper flat onto the surface of the water  it will pick up the
    color, immediately lift the cardstock back out of the water. Allow the
    cardstock dry flat. If your paper develops puckers, it can be ironed to flatten
    it back out.  Our you can press the paper between heavy books to flatten it out.

    Marbled Chalk Background 2:
    Chalk and water can be combined for a pastel background effect. Apply
    chalk in one or more colors randomly to the paper. Using a wet rag or
    sponge, pull and blend the chalked areas as desired. This technique is an
    excellent way to add color to freezer paper that will be used for gift wrap
    or gift bags. Once the background is dry, it can be stamped over, and it
    does not require spray fixative to remain in place.

    Chalk on Dark Paper:
    Create stunning designs.  Stamp a design using white pigment ink & white
    embossing powder then heat.  Apply chalk with a cotton swab around &
    in images.  Take a paper towel to wipe off excess chalk.

    Chalk/Blender Pen:
    Chalk colors can be beautifully blended with the blender pen. The blender
    fluid also "sets" the chalk, eliminating the need for spray fixative.

    Finishing Your Chalked Project: If desired, use a spray fixative or
    hairspray when finished.  This will also deepen the colors and add sheen.
    You need only a light coating.
     

    GRAY GUIDING:

    1.  Take any bold/solid stamp image & stamp onto cardstock using
    a Grey ink pad.
    2.  Color in & around the image in a light chalk color (ex: light pink
    for flowers & lime green for leaves, etc.) with a Q-tip or cotton ball.
    3.  Now go over gray lines again in a darker chalk color (ex: purple
    for flowers, evergreen for leaves, etc.).
    4.  Spray with sealer or even with hairspray to set the chalk.
    (Next steps are optional)
    5.  Follow along the gray lines again, but with the glue pen this time.
    6.  Sprinkle with glitter over the glue & shake excess off.  You may
    have to do steps 5 & 6 in sections so the glue doesn’t dry all the way.
    This technique gives your work a hand painted look.
     

    SILVER ENCORE GUIDING

    1. Stamp bold lined image using Silver Encore Ink.
    2. Rub off selected parts of shimmer with pastel-loaded applicator.
    Like the Gray Guiding effect where parts of the image shimmers
     

    POPPIN' PASTELS – CHALK RESIST – FAUX OIL PASTEL

    1.  Apply 2 – 3 different colors (that look good together) of light colored
    chalk with a cottonball (or sponge daubers) across cardstock.
    2.  Ink up an stamp using a VersaMark pad or a tinted or clear embossing
    ink (some use white pigment ink for a different look).  Stamp image onto the cardstock.
    3.  Make sure that the ink dries onto the cardstock, when it’s no longer shiny
    (Non Coated cardstock works best).
    4.  Apply chalk colors onto the tinted image with Cotton Balls, Q-Tips or
    sponge daubers.  The chalk will “darken” where it adheres to the ink.
    5.  Continue to add color, starting with the lightest going to the darkest until
    you are satisfied.
    6.  If you are using a 2-Step stamp, go over the image with the second step
    and repeat the process.
     

    Variation of Poppin’ Pastels

    1. Stamp several of the same images with clear embossing ink on white paper.  Let dry.
    2. Dip a cotton ball into one color of chalk & then lightly rub over & around the images.
    3. This creates a great background.
    4. Use a dye-base ink pad that matches the color of chalk used.  Stamp the same image
    used before randomly in dye-based ink.
     

    REDIFORM OR GRID TECHNIQUE

    This site explains it in great detail!
    http://www.rubberstampsclub.com/tips/grid-technique.html

    FUN FOAM – ALMOST LEATHER (feels like leather after it’s heated)

    Fun Foam is a product that is found in craft stores....it’s quite thin & comes in many
    different colors.
    1.  For best results use bold image stamps.
    2.  Cut out a piece that is larger than the image that you’ve chosen.
    3.  Heat up the piece of fun foam with a heat tool for about 20 seconds on each side.
    It will get quite hot & may curl.
    4.  Stamp your image into the heated foam & press hard (10 seconds).  When you
    remove the stamp the image has made an impression in the foam.  If you are not
    satisfied....reheat & start all over.
    5.  When you have the image you want....trim around it & adhere to a card or other
    craft project with mounting tape (double sided foam tape).

    Fun FoamVariation:
    1.  Cut a piece of fun foam to the same size as the block of wood on your stamp.
    2.  Using a stylus to hold the foam in place on your work surface, heat with your
    heat tool.
    3.  After edges curl a bit, stamp design (inked or uninked) into the foam. Let cool.
    (It feels like leather when cool.)
    4.  Trim and mount to project.
     

    THUMPING

    1.  Ink your stamp up with a light colored ink pad.  The stamps that work best
    are bold/solid.
    2.  For the next step use 2-3 colors of markers that you think would look pretty
    against the ink pad.
    3.  Take the cap off the brush tip end of the marker....& “tap” the side of the
    brush tip on the bold inked image.  Repeat with other colors. Huff on the image
    & stamp.  You now have a multicolored image (tie-dyed or marbleized look).
     

    DIRTY STAMPING (VARIATION OF THUMPING)

    1. Ink your stamp up with a light colored ink pad.  The stamps that work best
    are bold/solid.
    2. For the next step use 2-3 colors of markers that you think would look pretty
    with the ink pad you have choosen.
    3. Take the cap off the brush tip end of the marker....& “tap” the side of the
    brush tip on the bold inked image.  Repeat with other colors.
    4.   *Variation:  Take an old watercolor paint brush & pounce over the colors
    to blend them. Huff on the image & stamp.  You now have a multicolored image
    (tie-dyed or marbleized look).
     

    TAG ART

    Use of common shipping tags & pricing tags can add a new dimension to an
    art project or card.  Use them in a collage or on it’s own.  Can be a great way
    to embellish your work.
     

    PHOTO POSTCARDS

    Materials:
    Colorless blending marker with xylene
    Black & white copy of original photo - photo can be either color or black & white.
    Photocopy paper
    black card
    Directions:
    1.  Make a black & white copy of a photograph
    2.  Position the copy picture side down on the card.  When practicing for the
    first time, it’s best to do the rubbing on plain piece of copy paper.  Move to
    heavier cardstock after you’ve gained some experience.
    3.  Rub the backside of the photocopy with the blending marker.
    Note: You will need to go over it a few times to get the best transfer,
    & remember, everything comes out in reverse.
    4.  Without lifting the photocopy from the card, gently lift a corner, & peek
    underneath to see how the transfer is coming along.  Sometimes the xylene
    in the pen will release fibers from the copy paper that look like little spiders.
    Brush these away with either a finger or the tip of the blender.  More often
    than not, they add an antique look to the finished transfer.
    5.  If everything looks as you want it, remove photocopy.  If not, leave the
    copy in place, & repeat step 3.  After you’re done, the copy is not usable
    again as a transfer, but you can cut it up & use it as a mask.  This is especially
    helpful if you want to sponge or airbrush around it.
    6.  Color in the project with markers, colored pencils or airbrush.  The paper
    you transferred onto will determine the best coloring agents.
    Note:  This technique also transfers beautifully onto unfinished wooden boxes,
    so be sure to experiment with other surfaces, too.  Color copies can be
    transferred as well.
     

    PHOTO STAMPING (as per Suze Weinberg - The Art of Rubber Stamping)

    Materials:
    Glossy or matte-finished photograph of clouds or water
    Scenic rubber stamps
    Dye-based, permanent or archival-quality ink pad in dark color(s) “Ancient Page Ink Pads”
    Dye-based markers, sponges or an airbrush
    Spray Sealant - optional
    Directions:
    1.  Stamp directly onto the photo surface & allow the ink to settle & dry.  Pick stamps
    with scenic overtones to make the cloud pictures resemble real postcards.  Note: Don’t
    be afraid to mask areas to make the overall design look realistic.
    2.  When the photo is processed at the lab it is coated with an emulsion.  Don’t heat
    the photo surface with a heat gun in order to speed the drying time of the ink.  The heat
    will cause the emulsion to bubble.
    3.  After the ink dries, use sponges, markers or an airbrush directly on the surface of
    the stamped photo to color.
    4.  Seal the color with a glossy spray sealant if desired.
     

    SPONGING

    Cosmetic/Facial Sponges * Porous Everyday Sponges (celluloid) * Natural Sponges
    *Bathtoy Sponges
    Many different methods of use:
        Cut & tear sponges for different texture
        Use different amounts of pressure to get darker or lighter effects
        Use sponges either dry or slightly dampened with water
        Tapping, smudging, smearing & circular motions are all ways to get different
        effects & textures
        Flicking edges of cardstock

    1.  Sponge around paper masks which you have cut or torn or stencils.
    2.  Sponge through paper doilies, lace or netting for a delicate Victorian look.
    3.  Sponge grass in several shades of green & applying different amounts of pressure.
    4.  Sponge around die-cuts to create a silhouette.
    5.  Make stencils using a different craft punches - sponge through them.

    You can pat your sponges in ink pads, on chalk you can even apply color to a sponge
    with your markers.

    CONDENSED SPONGE CARDS

    Materials:
    small condensed sponge (Michaels) * stamp pad reinkers * glossy white paper
    * small spray bottle of water * scratch paper * gloves optional

    Steps:
    1.  Apply ink to both sides of one small sponge
    2.  Spray lightly with water
    3.  Place card on larger backup scratch paper to catch excess ink
    4.  Pull the inked edge of the sponge across the card (be sure to start on the
    scratch paper) be sure to use one fluid motion or else you will get what I call
    a hiccup.  Be sure to begin and end off the paper.
    5.  Repeat step 4 as needed to achieve the desired look, or pattern. Mist
    lightly with water to keep the ink flowing smoothly.

    Tips:
    Using rubber gloves keeps hands clean
    Using one fluid motion will give you the best flow of color
    sponges dry slowly, so take care in handling and storing them.

    You can ink up the sponge & spritz the water on the sponge to remoisten
    the ink. You can also do this with markers on the sponge & pull it across
    the paper, spritz to remoistened & do it again. You can also  place the
    sponge, inked up, in one place on the cardstock & twist or swirl it.
     

    COMPRESSED SPONGE  (variation of condensed sponge technique)

    Materials:
    Markers * Compressed sponge * Windex cleaner * Glossy card stock

    Steps:
    1. Press many different colors of markers along one cut edge of the
    compressed sponge.
    2. Lightly spritz colored edge of the sponge with a mixture of half
    water and half Windex.
    3. Run edge of sponge over surface of the card to create multi-colored
    stripes, until the entire card is covered. Add any pre-stamped images if desired.
    Experiment with your sponge to produce different effects like squiggles and plaids.
     
     

    RAINBOW SOOT CARDS

    1.  Take glossy cardstock & brayer a Kalidacolor rainbow ink across the card.
    2.  Light a candle & hold it very close to the wick to turn the card “black” with soot.
    3.  Once it’s covered in soot, I stamp an image (no ink) into the soot.  This allows
    the rainbow colors to show through.
    4.  Spray seal your work.
     

    SOOT CARDS

    Materials:
    Candle * Glossy Cardstock * Rubber Stamp

    Directions:
    1.  Light the candle & carefully move the glossy cardstock (glossy side towards flame)
    over the flame.  The flame actually needs to touch the cardstock.
    2.  If you hold the cardstock at an angle you will get more coverage faster.  Be
    especially careful near the edges & corners, they are most apt to catch fire.
    3.  When the cardstock is covered with soot to your satisfaction , stamp an uninked
    stamp onto it.  Press firmly but do not wiggle.
    4.  Lift straight up.
    5.  Immediately spray card with a spray fixative.  Hold the can 12” - 14” above
    the card.....sort of spraying away from the card.  Once the stream of spray is
    coming out evenly move the nozzle toward your card....keeping a 12” distance.
     If you don’t do this, you’ll get little polka dots form the pressure in the can
    pushing the soot around on the card.
    Note: It’s very difficult to do this on a full size card.  It’s recommended that
    you cover a piece of cardstock with soot, stamp, spray, let dry & then cut
    out the image & glue it onto another piece of cardstock.
     

    PAPER MACHE PAINTING & STAMPING

    Materials:
    Assorted Acrylic Paints * Clear Acrylic Sealer Spray (matte &/or glossy)
    * Sponge Brushes * Heat Tool *Assorted Colors of Fabrico Ink Pads
    * Assorted Markers * Watercolor Brush * Pastels * Embellishments * Glue

    Directions:
    1.  Spray seal the paper mache with a clear acrylic sealer spray.  Let dry.
    2.  Cover entire surface with acrylic paint.  Paint several (3-4) coats & let dry in
    between each coat.  Let final coat dry.
    3.  Stamp images in Fabrico Real Black.  Heat set with heat tool.
    4.  Take a lightly wet paint brush & dip it into the Fabrico ink pads to “paint
    in each color”.  Heat set with heat tool.  The colors that were painted in will seem faded.
    5.  Shade with markers - watercolor method.  The Fabrico inks seem to help the
    markers go on without streaks & shading the markers make the colors more vibrant.
    You can also apply the marker directly to the painted Fabrico surface.
    6.  To bring out the images you can chalk around them.....blues or gray.  Apply
    a little color of red pastel for cheek color.
    7.  Lightly spray seal the whole object & let dry.
    8.  Add embellishments.  Hot glue bows or buttons for a quick & solid adhesion.
     

    ENVELOPES

    Materials:
    Patterned Tissue Paper * Freezer Paper (located near the wax paper at the store)
    * Iron *  Envelope Template

    Directions:
    Place the wrong side of the tissue paper to the waxed side of the freezer paper…iron
    together.  The freezer paper fuses to the tissue paper.  The paper is now sturdy enough
    to make an envelope out of it using an envelope template.

    Variation:
    Before placing tissue paper on to the freezer paper... wad it up creating
    wrinkles/texture and then flatten out and iron onto the freezer paper. Adds
    another dimension to your paper/envelope.

    Tips:
    Make enough of the tissue/freezer paper for gift wrap. It always makes a great
    impression when the gift wrap and envelope match. And it looks nice, too!
     

    ENVELOPE GLUE

    1 package Unflavored Gelatin * 1 Tbs. Cold Water * 3 Tbs. Boiling water
    * ½ tsp. White Corn Syrup or Sugar * ½ tsp. Lemon or Vanilla Extract

    1. In a small bowl, sprinkle gelatin over the cold water to soften for 5 minutes.
     Pour in the boiling water & mix until dissolved.  Add corn syrup & extract & mix well.
    2. Brush thin coating on envelope flap.  Let dry.

    To store put in closed container in the refrigerator.  To use again microwave for 20
    seconds on High.  Check for brushability.
     

    BACKGROUND STAMPS/ENVELOPES

    If you stamp the envelopes with the background stamps (lace or plaid) you
    can coordinate them with your cards. If you mask a rectangle in the front, like
    in the portfolio, you will have an area to write the mailing address. This would
    work well in a demo as well to sell the background stamps.  Consider using
    background papers to make envelopes if you don’t feel like stamping them.
     

    VELLUM ENVELOPES

    Simply use one of the envelope templates with a sheet of vellum!
     

    CELLO BAG ENVELOPES

    You can address the “back: of your card, instead of writing handstamped by.
    Put the card into a cello bag.  Use the 6x8 cello bag. Cut 2" above the card
    and 1/2" angle to flap over and seal with tape.   Also make sure your postage
    is on the outside of the bag not on the card.
     

    DOILY ENVELOPES

    Use one of the 8” doilies to make beautiful dainty envelopes for
    hand-delivery…or place inside a cello envelope to mail.
     

    BAGALOPE – ENVELOPE GIFT BAG – ENVELOPE TOTE

    Standard Size Envelopes * Decorative Scissors * Hole Puncher * Rubber Stamps
    * Monoadhesive or Double-Stick Tape
    1:  Seal the envelope closed.
    2:  Using decorative scissors, cut off one short side of the envelope.
    3:  Score along all three edges - equal on all three edges. Make acrisp crease
    by folding the score line both ways.
    4:  Stamp and decorate now - allow inks, etc. to dry.
    5:  Open the cut edge.
    6:  Fold the scored edges inwards (valley folds - look at a grocery bag or
    other bag of that type to get an idea).
    7:  The bottom of the bag will form two points at bottom sides.  Use Monoadhesive
    or Double-Stick Tape to tack down the two points & press to the bottom of bag.
    8.  You can make a handle to attach to the bag or you may punch a couple of holes
    on the front of the bag & string ribbon or raffia to form a bow to close the bag.
     

    PURSE-A-LOPE

    1. Fold gussets on 3 sides of an envelope (sturdier ones work the best).
    2. Fold over the 2 sides & bottom  - ½ “ to ¼” wide.
    3. Fold back & forth for a strong, burnished crease.
    4. While flat stamp your purse as desired.
    5. Put your hand into the envelope & turn it into a purse by making the sides
    stand out as gussets & the bottom into a purse bottom.
    6. Fold the bottom triangles under & glue or tape them down.
    7. Fold the envelope flap over the top.  Use a hold punch to make 2 half circles
    at the top of the purse.  Thread a piece of ribbon through the holes & tie inside the purse.
    8. After putting a small gift inside the purse you can seal the flap closed, or use a small
    piece of Velcro to close.
     

    FLOCKING

    Apply adhesive only to the area that you wish to cover with flocking.  Craft glue is
    recommended for the most durable adhesion. For a thin layer of flocking, brush on
    a thin even layer of glue and sprinkle flocking.  For a thick layer of flocking, use a
    thicker layer of glue and sprinkle a heavy layer of flocking.  Gently press the flocking
    into the adhesive and then sprinkle on a second layer of flocking. Let the surface dry
    thoroughly before handling.  When dry, excess flocking may be returned to the container.
    A little goes a long way.
     

    VELVET PAPER

    Peel backing from sticker paper.  Lay paper on work surface sticky side up.  Pour
    flocking onto sticky side, then press flocking with fingertips for best coverage.  Pour
    off excess….then stamp.
     

    FOILED GIFT WRAP

    1.  Emboss an open image without a lot of detail (like balloons, hearts, flowers,
    jar, cauldron, Star of David, etc.) onto the front of a card.  Use Black Colorbox
    & Clear Emboss Powder.

    2.  Stamp the same image onto plain foiled holiday gift wrap, simply using a
    dye-based ink.  You can cut out the whole image or parts of it…depending on
    the look you want to go for.  Cut on the “inside” line of the image.

    3.  Glue the foiled piece or pieces inside the embossed image on the card.
     

    BUBBLE BACKGROUND

    There are two variations to this technique….see which one you would like to try.
    Method #1
    1.  Put detergent into a bowl & toss ink on top of it.
    2.  Stick a straw in & blow bubbles onto your cardstock, letting the bubbles pop
    onto the card.
    3.  The cardstock does not have to be glossy….however that does work best.
    Method #2
    1.  Brayer a color onto glossy paper.
    2.  Take a small bottle of bubbles & blow bubbles in the air.
    3.  Try to “catch” the bubbles with your brayered cardstock.
    4.  It works best when you blow the bubbles immediately after you’ve brayered
    your background.
     

    COOKIE CUTTER

    1.  Make your own die cuts.
    2.  Trace the cookie cutter to the front of your cardstock with a pencil….follow
    the line with a marker or metallic marker.  Stamp around or inside your cookie cutter shape.
    3.  Trace the cookie cutter to the front of your card.  Cut out the shape with a craft
    knife…to make a shaped window.
    Make a shaped note card, using the cookie cutter shape as your outline.
     

    CLASSIC BLOCK STAMPING – SHADOW STAMPING

    First of all shadow stamping is the name applied to a certain line of stamps by Hero
    Arts.  They have various sizes of Shadow Stamps.  Basically it’s a square or rectangular
    solid block of rubber (although unusual shapes can be found)….the edges are unique as
    they aren’t perfect….almost a torn look.  You stamp in a soft muted color (such as dye
    pad or even an Encore metallic ink)…..stamp off some of the excess on a scratch sheet
    of paper.  Then stamp onto card.  You can do something like this with excess rubber
    that you’ve cut from your stamps too.  From there, there are various techniques that
    can be done.  The techniques below are from the Hero Arts website.  Basically this is
    the classic coupling of solid block and open line images.

    Basics

    1.  Consider the size to the shadow stamp that you have (or made).  If you plan to
    stamp a smaller image inside the shadow the size must fit into the shadow….the
    shadow stamp “frames” your image.  Stamp a few blocks together….then stamp
    a larger image that will fit on all the blocks.

    2.  To get different grades of color….use a 2nd or 3rd impression….the shadow
    gets increasingly lighter as you stamp.  Stamp on scratch paper first & then stamp
    without reinking onto your card.  Once your impression dries, it has a nice marbled
    and beautifully textured background quality with just a hint of the soft wash of
    Shadow Ink color.

    3.  You have now stamped a “shadow” onto your card.  The next step is to add
    the image of your choice “inside” the shadow.  Black ink works best to best
    emphasize your image…although any saturated color works fine.  You will see
    the soft muted shadow subtly but elegantly emphasizes any image you stamp
    inside of it.  Shadows make a great backdrop for highlighting any fine etching
    or bold stamped image.
     

    Different Techniques for Shadow Stamping

    Plain Shadow

    Ink shadow with pigment ink.  Stamp. Ink second stamp design onto stamped shadow.

    Edges Only

    Ink edges only on the shadow stamp.  Use edges of pad, Dauber Duos, or markers.

    Shadow in a Shadow (Kissing Method)

    Ink shadow with pigment ink, but do not stamp.  Take smaller uninked shadow
    and press into center of inked shadow stamp.  Ink will be removed from center
    area.  Stamp onto paper.  Area in middle will be lighter and slightly framed.
    Stamp design of your choice in center.

    Monoprint (Another Kissing Method)

    Ink shadow with pigment ink.  Take clean, uninked stamp and stamp onto
    inked area.  Clean off stamp each time you take ink off.  Stamp onto paper
    to get your monoprint.

    Textures

    Ink shadow with pigment ink.  Stamp onto corrugated cardboard.  Slightly
    turn stamp and stamp again.  Grid design will be on your inked area.  Stamp
    shadow onto paper and pattern will appear.

    Stamp on Stamps

    Ink shadow with pigment ink.  Take a smaller stamp and ink in a darker color.
    Randomly stamp onto first stamp.  Stamp onto paper and pattern will appear.

    Stylus Designs

    Ink shadow with pigment ink.  Take stylus or pencil and draw into inked
    area on stamp.  Stamp onto paper and patterns you’ve drawn will appear.

    Shadow, Shadow, Shadow

    Ink first shadow and stamp.  Ink smaller shadow and stamp diagonally.
    Ink third shadow and turn again.  Ink stamp of your choice on top of all three.

    (Block/Shadow Stamps can be found at: Hero Arts, Impress Rubber Stamps,
    Magenta, A Stamp in the Hand, Stampers Anonymous & Rubber Tree Stamps.
    But remember….you can always make your own out of excess rubber!)
     

    WET AND DRY EMBOSS

    1.  Stamp an outline stamp with the Basic Black ink pad & let dry completely.
    2.  Use a wet Q-tip and go around edge of the outline. Place on your mouse
    pad & trace outline with stylus.
    3.  Turn over and use the wet Q-tip again to moisten inside the outlined area.
    Use your stylus to “color” in the wet area (inside the outline). This makes the
    image “pop up” on the right side of your project.
    4.  Allow to dry.  Color in with pastels &/or embellish with glitter.
     
     

    DRY EMBOSSING – BLIND EMBOSSING – PAPER EMBOSSING – DEBOSSING

    Materials:
    Lightbox * Stencil (plastic or brass) * Stylus Tool * Stencil Tape/Drafting
    Tape * Cardstock /Vellum Cardstock

    Directions:
    1.  Tape or place stencil in place over a lit lightbox.  Position card over
    desired  image on stencil.  You’ll see the shape though your cardstock.
    2.  Use a stylus tool to trace around perimeter of stencil shape, creating
    raised or recessed effect around your stamped image.  Pressing from the
    front of your card makes a recessed pattern.  Pressing from the back
    makes a raised pattern.

    Debossing Metal:

    You can also “deboss” a thin sheet of metal.
    1.  Sandwich a metal sheet between two identical stencils and line it up.
    Wrap tape around top and bottom edges of the stencil pair to hold layers.
    Press the stylus along the stencil pattern to "deboss" the design into your
    card. Use all or part of a stencil pattern to deboss.
    2.  You can also stamp on one side of the metal sheet (.36 gauge copper
    metal – found in a roll – may find in sheets?) with black ink.  Use an image
    that is not extemely detailed. Take a stylus & follow the pattern.  On the
    reverse side you will have a raised image.
     

    METAL EMBOSSING (Debossing)

    Sheets of metal Aluminum-medium weight or Copper -light weight
    Outline Stamp of Choice
    Tissue Paper
    Black ink

    1. Cut small piece of metal to fit stamp.
    2. Stamp with black ink on tissue paper or vellum.
    3. Place metal on soft surface or rubber mat.
    4. With fine point of stylus lightly trace image of stamp onto reverse
    side of metal. For a puffy embossed design lightly trace image in metal
    several times.
    5. Emboss into puffy areas with eraser end of pencil or other smooth
    end like a Bic stick pen, you can push inside of stamped image.
    6. Cut out design and apply to card or project with adhesive.
    7. To add permanence (so it won't be crushed) fill in the back of
    the design with plaster, wax or resin.
    8. To add color or a patina, apply paint before mounting. After a
    few minutes, rub off dry and polish. Varnish is optional.

    Note:
    This technique can also be down with 4 to 5 layers of the thick of
    extra strength aluminum foil.   You will have to secure each layer
    with an adhesive.  Roll the cut edges to hide the layered cuts.
    Also remember to work on a soft smooth surface as the metal
    will pick up any creases, dips or raised impressions.
     

    FOIL STAMPING (variation of Metal Embossing)

    Extra Strength Aluminum Foil  or Disposable Pie Tin/Roasting
    Pan * Rubber Stamps *

    If you are using extra strength aluminum foil…layer your foil, making
    4-5 layers thick.  You will have to secure each layer with a spray adhesive.
    Before stamping you must make sure the foil is smoothed out (use a credit
    card or scraper). Stamp your image on the “reverse” side of the foil (the
    non-shiny side)….use a dye-based ink…doesn’t matter what color.
    After stamping, place foil on a magazine or cushioned surface like a mouse
    pad. On the same side that you stamp, use a stylus/embossing tool to follow
    your design lines.  If you are using a word or greeting stamp, you will need
    to stamp it first onto thin paper, then flit it over & trace on the reverse/mirror
    image side….otherwise your words will read backwards. With the stylus you
    are pushing the design through to the front of the foil, you get the elegant look
    of raised embossing on a metallic surface. Finished foil pieces can be trimmed
    with decorative scissors & glued to fronts of cards.  They look stunning with a
    window cut out of the front to fit the image too.

    Other Ideas:
    1.  Color in images with permanent markers, outline a bold stamp & then
    fill in the background with little squiggles, lines, dashes, etc.
    2.  If you don’t have extra strength aluminum foil…you can use the bottom
    of a disposable pie tin or roasting pan.
     

    CORK STAMPING

    You can find cork in craft stores, some stamp stores & even an automotive store!

    1. Stamp your image with Basic Black Ink Pad (if using an outline image).
    2. Color in with markers.  Because the cork soaks up a lot of ink….you will have to blot the ink many times.  Let dry.
    3. You may cut around the image with decorative scissors or regular scissors.
    4. Hot gluing the cork, when layering, is the best way to adhere the cork to your card.
     

    SHAKER CARD/Foam Core

    Supplies:
    Piece of foam core cut to the size of card * Piece of card stock for back * Piece of decorative paper or one you've made for front of card * Piece of acetate * Confetti or other for filling * Ribbon * Stamps * Glue * Craft Knife * Markers * Pencils for Coloring Images

    1. Cut the foam core to the card size, then using a stamp positioner, stamp the outside image on it.  Cut out the hole just a bit larger than the image size.  (If you prefer you can just cut a simple shape as per your final outside decoration needs.)
    2. Stamp the image on a decorative or plain piece of paper or cardstock that you have stamped. Carefully cut out the center just a bit smaller than the image itself.  (This is for the outside of the card.)
    3. Stamp the inside on the card stock so it will be seen through the hole in the foam core.  (The easiest way to do that is to use a pencil & trace through the hole very lightly as a guide, then erase it after stamping.)
    4. Glue the foam core to the card so the inside image will show through the hole & put in the confetti & glitter.  Then glue a piece of acetate over it.
    5. Glue the decorative piece over all of that & put a ribbon around the sides to hide the ugly edges of the foam core.
     

    SHAKER CARD/Cardstock

    Supplies:
     ½ sheet card stock (folded)
    ¼ sheet card stock (cut slightly smaller)
    ¼ sheet acetate
    Confetti
    Stamps

    1.  You can make a shaker card using a stamp that has a large opening in it such as the center of a frame stamp.  Or you can cut out the lower body part of the snowman in the “Let it Snow” set and stuff him full of glitter and fake snow.
    2.  Stamp and emboss image on the front of the (folded) ½ sheet of card stock.  Also at this time emboss or stamp any other images to the front of the card.
    3.  With an craft knife, cut out the inside of the embossed image, so that you have a hole (opening)
    4.  Use monoadhesive to attach the acetate to the inside of the front of the card.
    5.  Use foam mounting tape to make a “barrier” around the acetate covered opening.  Being careful as to not let the mounting tape show through to the front side.  You need this barrier to keep the confetti, glitter or beads in.
    6.  Add beads, confetti or glitter.  You can even add stamped images or shrink plastic, seeds and herbs.  What you can add is limited to your imagination.
    7.  Before the next step, you can stamp or emboss the ¼ sheet of card stock with a greeting that would show through the window.
    8.  Now, peel off the backing to the mounting tape and attach your ¼ sheet of card stock.
    Before attaching the ¼ sheet of card stock, make sure to look to see if it was upside down or not.
     

    WATER CARD – SEAL A MEAL CARD

    (Note:  You will need an item called Seal-A-Meal or Eurosealer to do this project)

    Materials:
    Bag Sealer * Plastic bag/rolls used for sealing liquids and ...foods *  water or other liquids such as shampoo, hair gel, etc. * mylar confetti or small trinkets such as flat ...beads, small shells, sand, etc. * cardstock or blank cards * utility knife * Monoadhesive or Double-Stick Tape * Rubber Stamps * Food Coloring (optional)

    Directions:
    Step 1: Form the pouch (using your bag sealer and plastic) with three sealed sides (2"X3" is a good size).
    Step 2: Fill the pouch with a small amount of water or liquid - you only need about 1-2 tablespoons. Add your confetti or small trinkets to the  pouch. For a touch of color, use food coloring unless you’re using colored hair gel!
    Step 3: Carefully press the air out of the pouch and seal the remaining side, forming a fully enclosed, fairly flat pouch with the liquid & confetti completely sealed inside. Make sure you have no leaks!
    Step 4: Make your card if necessary, fold your cardstock to form a card.  Decorate your card however you wish with rubber stamps, etc.
    Step 5: On the front of your card, cut out a small window with your utility knife. The size of the window should be smaller than the size of your pouch.
    Step 6: Assemble the card and pouch: tape the edges of your sealed pouch to the inside of the card so that your pouch shows through the window that you cut in the front of the card. Use glue or double-stick tape to seal closed
    the edges of your card. You are done! Shake your card to see the confetti float across the window in the card.

    Note: If you intend to send this card through the mail, its best to enclose the card in a padded and protected mailer to avoid getting your card "popped" by the automatic letter handling machines. You want your recipient to receive an ultra cool water card, not a soggy mess!
     

    STICKER PAPER

    1.  Stamp images on sticker paper and color if needed with markers.  Cut out images and place on top of brayered backgrounds.
    2.  Brayer on a piece of sticker paper, then stamp an image that is open (like a vase, Easter egg, balloon, etc.)…cut out and layer.
     
     

    MONOCHROMATIC

    This means using 1 color.  Design a card that uses cardstock, ink pad & marker of the same color….using white or another neutral color to show contrast.  You may stamp an image in Basic Black, color image in with one color, flick edges with the same color & layer onto the same colored cardstock.  Very simple.
     
     

    PAPER TOLE

    Paper tole is an art technique in which part or all of an image is raised from the surface to give a 3 dimensional effect which enhances the natural shape of the image. For example, this technique can be used to emphasize the curved petals of a flower or the rounded curve of a balloon, apple or strawberry.  Three basic types of paper tole techniques used with rubber stamping:

    Simple Tole 1: A duplicate of an image is stamped on a different paper, colored and carefully cut out. This duplicate is then mounted on top of the original with foam mounts, causing it to be raised. One or more pieces of foam mount can be applied, depending on the height desired.

    Simple Tole 2: Part of an image is carefully cut out and lifted from the surface of the card to give it "life." For example, a butterfly wing or a few petals from a flower can be lifted out. A piece of matching or contrasting cardstock can be glued to the back of your work to fill the cut areas. A simple way to tole an entire large flower is to stamp and color a duplicate image, cut out the petals up to the center, fold or curl outward, and glue the center of the flower onto its original with rubber cement.

    True Paper Tole: Each element of a duplicate image is cut out separately with an X-acto® knife, curved or curled, and reapplied directly over the original. This creates a sculptured, layered, three dimensional effect.
     

    True Paper Tole

    Rubber Stamps (Bold images work best) * Scissors * hot glue gun * Spoon * Pen *  Paintbrush handle (You will use these for curling and curving pieces.)
     

    Basic Technique:

    1.  Stamp out the desired image on the front of your card and color it.
    2.  Stamp out and color an identical image on a separate piece of cardstock.
    3.  Cut out all (or some) of the design elements from your duplicate image.
    4.  For designs with many pieces, number a copy of the original and your duplicate pieces to match. This will help you to find the right position for your pieces.
    5.  Color over the edge of your cut pieces to hide the white cut marks.
    6.  Curve or curl each individual piece around the edge of a spoon, the tip of a pen, the handle of a small paintbrush, or simply press it into the palm of your hand. Try to make the curves realistic for the design.
    7.  Apply hot glue to the underside of each curved piece. Make it as high as you wish to raise the image. The curve of the piece will hide the hot glue.
    8.  Attach each cut out piece to the corresponding place on the original stamped design on your card. A tweezers or toothpick will help you to position it.  Begin working with the bottom or back layers first and build toward the front or top.
     

    HOMEMADE RUBBER STAMP INK

    Powdered Clothes Dye (any color)
    1/4 Teaspoon Alcohol
    5 Tablespoons Glycerin
    Mix dye with alcohol to the consistency of thin cream. Add glycerin. Stir until well blended. This makes enough to replenish a stamp pad several times. Pour ink over stamp pad or a foam-rubber pad that is fine grained. To make the stamp pad you will need foam rubber and a small plastic box with lid (such as a travel soap box). Cut the foam rubber to fit inside the plastic box. Spread the ink evenly with a brush or a tongue depressor.
     

    HOMEMADE TRANSFER INK

    Use this ink to transfer designs printed with your computer printer or copy machine. You can transfer to things too small to fit into your printer or just won't go into your printer, like fabric or big poster boards. Use your imagination. Try the cartoon section of you newspaper. Just remember whatever you transfer will be the reverse image, lettering will be printed in reverse.
    Note: transfer ink works well with inkjet printers and copy machines but not at all with laser printers.
    2 tablespoons of soap powder, Ivory Snow of soap bar scrapings. Do not use detergent
    1/4 cup hot water
    1 tablespoon turpentine
    Combine the soap powder and the hot water in a small jar. Stir until dissolved. Add the turpentine. Remember don't use the same tablespoon you use for cooking. Let the transfer ink cool before using or putting the lid on the jar.
    To transfer a design. Start with a freshly printed design. Avoid using one that has been printed weeks or months prior to project. Use a paintbrush and brush the ink over the picture to be transferred. Wait 10 seconds. Place the object to be transferred to on top of the picture or you could do it in reverse and place the picture on top of the item to be transferred.  Rub firmly with the back of a spoon. Lift a corner to check if the design has transferred when completely transferred lift off completely, stand back and admire.
    Storage: You may store the transfer ink unrefrigerated forever! If the ink solidifies just bring it back to a liquid state by placing the jar in a warm pan of water. Shake well and you're ready to use it again.
     

    MARBLED TISSUE PAPER

    Materials:
    Standard Tissue Paper * Dye Inks Refills * Spritz Bottles * Thinned White Glue * Fine Glitter * Small Glass Containers (baby food jars)  * Droppers (like for medicine) * Blow Dryer * Old Newspaper or Protective Covering

    Preparation:
    1.  Crinkle tissue paper in a wadded ball then flatten out with your hands.
    2.  Dilute inks with water to your preference of shading in a spritzer bottle.
    3.  In small glass containers sprinkle glitter & add thinned white glue & water.
    4.  Spread newspaper or protective covering over the area you will be working on.

    Directions:
    1.  Lay out a sheet of tissue paper.
    2.  Spray your various colors of ink that you’d like on the paper.
    3.  Dry with a standard blow dryer whenever your paper gets too wet to handle.
    4.  Using a dropper, squirt the glitter/glue solution randomly on the paper.
    5.  Continue to dry the sheet completely & put aside as you move on to the next sheet.
    6.  Playing & experimenting with combinations of colors is what makes this so much fun.
    When you’ve finished with your projects & your papers are dry, press lightly with an iron & fold or roll to store.
     

    TISSUE STAMPING/DECOUPAGE

    1.  Stamp your image onto tissue paper (you can emboss too).  Be sure to have something behind the tissue as ink will bleed through.
    2.  If using outline images….color images with markers or colored pencils.  Careful as to not tear the delicate paper.
    3.  Lightly spray the tissue with a spray fixative….this will keep colors from bleeding.  Tear out images, as if to do a collage or use one piece of tissue that will fit the glass object.

    GLASS:
    1.  With a sponge brush apply white tacky glue to glass votive or other glass candle holder.
    2.  When tissue is in place, apply glue to entire glass piece.
    3.  Sprinkle Dazzling Diamonds glitter all over the glass & let dry.
    4.  Put a round piece of felt on the bottom.  The candle light will really dazzle.
    (You can use rainbow ink pads too….be sure to use a spray fixative or a fast drying adhesive)

    TISSUE STAMPING /CANDLE

    Materials:
    Candle (votive or pillar)
    Tissue Paper (color matches candle)
    Ink Pads, Markers or Colored Pencils
    2-Way Glue Pen

    Stamp your image onto tissue paper (you can emboss too).  Be sure to have something behind the tissue as ink will bleed through.
    If using outline images….color images with markers or colored pencils.  Careful as to not tear the delicate paper.
    Lightly spray the tissue with a spray fixative….this will keep colors from bleeding.
    Cut or tear the image out of the tissue paper….leaving ¼ to ½ inch all the way around.
    On the ¼ to ½ inch excess tissue dot here & there with 2-Way Glue.  This will keep the tissue in place & will not blow away when you use your heat tool.
    Heat the tissue enough to just melt the tissue into the wax.  Keep the heat tool moving & not too close….so as to not create too many ripples or drip marks in the wax.

    Other Tips:
    Some people like to use a heated spoon to press onto the tissue….to get the wax to melt into it.
    When you think the image is fully embedded in wax…take an old nylon stocking & rub over the entire area.  It will smooth out any ridges in the wax.
    Practice on a candle to get the feel of doing this & then do the real thing.
     

    GOLD-LEAF STAMPING


    Faux Gold Leaf  * Duo Embellishing Adhesive Glue & Brush  (brand name) or Faux Gold Leafing Glue * Stiff Brush * Any Desired Item with a Smooth Surface

    Instructions:
    1. Brush glue onto the stamps, then stamp onto smooth surface.  Apply a generous amount of gold leaf to glue design.  Make sure to cover every portion of stamped design with gold leaf.  Repeat until design is covered with gold leaf.
    2. Immediately wash the stamp to remove the glue.  Wait for glue to dry.
    3. Brush away excess leafing using a stiff brush.
     

    SHRINK PLASTIC

    Oven Method:
    1. Lightly sand shrink plastic with a fine grade sand paper eliminating any shiny spots.  Failure to remove shiny spots will cause bleeding of colors.
    2. Wipe surface with a damp cloth or tack cloth to get rid of grit & dry thoroughly.
    3. Stamp image with Fabricos.  Black for outline stamps & all colors for bold stamps., stamp the image onto the sanded side of the shrink plastic.  Let the ink dry for a few minutes, then turn over & blot on a porous type paper (like newsprint).  The image will appear lighter.  Shrinking will make the image darker.
    4. Color as desired with any are medium (colored pencils, chalks, markers, etc.)  Some colors of colored pencils look very different after shrinking, especially reds.  Coloring need not be perfect.  There is no need to go all the way to the edge.  Shrinking will intensify colors & small imperfections will disappear.  Color on a scrap.  Then, shrink it to insure the color desired.  Avoid smudging after coloring by heat setting colors with a blow dryer on warm setting.
    5. Cut the image out & punch any holes that are needed.  Place on a non-stick baking sheet that has been  sprinkled with baby powder.
    6. Bake in a 300 degree oven until shrinking is complete. The finished product will be about the thickness of a nickel. Some curling during the baking process is normal.
    7. Remove from the baking sheet using a spatula and flatten to cool. The colors will become more intense as the plastic shrinks.
    8. Spray seal to protect your images.

    Heat Tool Method:
    1. Gently rough up polyshrink with sandpaper.  Lightly ink stamp with black Fabrico, blot once onto scratch paper & stamp image in center of polyshrink.
    2. Use blow dryer for faster drying (heat setting the Fabrico).  When ink is dry, color in with any medium as stated above.
    3. You may cut the image out with decorative scissors or regular scissors….depending on the project.
    4. Using a heat tool, heat image until it flattens.  The polyshrink will curl when heated and can be easily held in one place with the eraser tip of your pencil or stylus.  While image is still warm from the heat, press the wooden side of the stamp on it to flatten.
    5. Be sure to spray seal for protection.

    To glue shrink plastic to pin backs or cardstock….you can use E-6000 Adhesive or hot glue.

    GOLD BUFFED SHRINK PLASTIC
    1. Draw a design on shrink plastic with a permanent marker.  An outline shape with no details.
    2. Cut this shape out & color with watercolors.
    3. Paint about 4 different watercolors in a random fashion all over…layer the colors a little.  A light wash will do, color intensifies as the plastic shrinks.
    4. Bake on a shrink plastic baking board (craft store buy) with baby powder under the plastic to keep it from sticking to the board.
    5. After the plastic is finished shrinking QUICKLY remove from oven. *DO NOT remove from board.
    6. Take a deeply etched rubber stamp & press it firmly into the shrink plastic. Press until the plastic cools.
    7. Now you have your stamp design impressed into the plastic.  If it doesn't come out, you can put the shrink plastic back into the oven & reheat.  The image should flatten back out & then you can re-stamp again.
    8. Take Gold Rub-N-Buff (craft store buy), go over the tops of the image.
    9. Seal with a spray sealer.
    *Removing the shrink plastic from the shrink plastic baking board can cool the shrink plastic too quickly to impress the image.  Let it remain on the board as you stamp in the image.

    It was mentioned – but hadn’t been done yet, to try Gold Encore instead of the Rub –N – Buff.  Encore may not hold up to the spray sealer on Shrink Plastic?  Experiment.  The gold brings out the image with a nice watercolor background.

    Suggestions: You can make pins, necklaces, earrings, etc.  Just be sure to punch your holes before shrinking so you can add jump rings for jewelry.
     

    CLAY POTS

    1.  Spray the clay pot with a sealer spray, lightly.

    2.  You can paint the base of the pot with acrylic paint or leave plain.
    Stamp your image (bold works best) in a Fabrico pad & apply to pot.  Be careful as the pots are curved and it's a little tricky keeping the stamps from sliding and stamping in the position you want. So go slow.  When using the Fabrico…you need to heat set the clay pot.  Heat set the clay pots with a hair dryer, heat tool or even in your oven (10 to 15 Minutes).  It gets very hot!  Be careful.

    You may also use acrylic paint to stamp with instead of the crafters ink.  Take a sponge brush & apply it to your stamp.  Make sure you don't use too much paint. Also, keep the paint from drying on your stamps.  Take a shallow dish & fill it with folded paper towels & get them very moist with water.  When using a few different stamps with acrylic paint….place the stamps face down on the damp paper towels.  It keeps the paint from drying on your stamps.  When cleaning your stamps use a soft toothbrush and water in case the paint gets in the crevices.
    You can emboss your images with pigment ink or Fabrico ink pads and clear powder.
    For extra protection you may want to seal the clay pot when finished.  For a glossy look….spray with glossy sealer.
     

    TILE STAMPING

    1.  Purchase single finished tiles from hardware store (some like to sand it a bit to roughen it up or buy a matte finished tile).
    2.  Stamp on tiles using Fabrico ink pads.
    3.  Bold images work best, like Definitely Decorative. If doing 2-Step Stamping on them, you may opt to dry the ink a bit before adding the second layered image.
    4.  Stamp and decorate any way you wish.
    5.  Place tile in oven preheated to 350 degrees.  Heat for 15 minutes and the ink will be dry and heat set.
    6.  Spray with clear glaze...puts a nice shiny coat on & brightens everything up!
    Coaster:
    Add self-adhesive felt squares to each corner if using for a coaster!
    Decoration:
    Use a little easel and display like you would a collector's plate!
     

    PEARL EX

    Although we don’t sell this medium…many demonstrators love to play with it.  You can buy this in an arts & crafts store or in a rubber stamp store.  What is Pearl Ex? Pearl Ex is a mica-based dry pigment. Because it is mica-based, Pearl Ex has a pearlescent look that is very light and ethereal. Pearl Ex is heat resistant, acid free, non-toxic, non-tarnish, non-rusting, and embossable.

    Pearl Ex & Watercoloring - Use with gum arabic (1/4 part gum arabic to 1 part Pearl Ex). The gum arabic is a binder and helps the Pearl Ex adhere to the cardstock. Mix in water to get the consistency desired and “paint” image with a brush. Let dry & spray seal.  These paints will have a “sheen” to them, & the interference & duo colors will surprise you.  If you don’t use up all the paint you made, keep it, & just add water the next time.  Experiment with different ratios of gum arabic to Pearl Ex.  This can be used on matte or glossy cardstock.  Or try this….Paint your design using watercolors as usual.  While paint is still wet, use your brush to pick up some Pearl Ex & apply to the painted area.  Try dotting small amounts here & there, or spreading it around for different effects.

    Pearl Ex & Background Paper - After using for watercoloring, don't discard the water and residue. Use it to paint or sponge on cardstock. Or, let the water dry out leaving the Pearl Ex/gum arabic. You can just add water at another time to use again.

    Stamping with Pearl Ex - Mix the Pearl Ex with gum arabic and water. Using a wide paint brush, paint the Pearl Ex onto your stamp. Works best with solid stamps.  Or simply rub Pearl Ex onto your stamp surface & stamp on paper.  Spray seal to fix it.  For dramatic effects….stamp on dark colored cardstock using clear embossing ink.  Brush Pearl Ex on the ink…it sticks.  Seal with spray sealer.

    Pearl Ex & Layer Embossing - After 3 to 4 layers of embossing ink and powder, stamp image into last hot layer (coat stamp first with clear embossing ink).  After cooling, rub Pearl Ex into crevices. Also, you can sprinkle the Pearl Ex on the last layer before heating.

    Pearl Ex & Chalking - Use Pearl Ex dry, like a chalk. Rub it on the cardstock, with your finger, to create a metallic sheen and to highlight. Spray seal it with a acrylic sealer or even hairspray works .

    Pearl Ex & Mica Tiles - Mix Pearl Ex with Perfect Paper Adhesive and put a dollop on the back of a mica tile. You can use more than one color. Smush the tile around on the cardstock, add glitter, mica flakes, beads, etc. to embellish. The mica tile can be embossed before using - looks really cool with fish or other more masculine images.

    Pearl Ex Brushed - Stamp image with an Encore Pigment pad onto dark cardstock. Using a soft brush (cosmetic brushes work great), apply Pearl Ex gently to the image, using one or several colors (clean brush between colors).  Use the soft brush to gently brush off excess Pearl Ex. If you mixed Pearl Ex colors, save it to use with embossing, etc. Seal with acrylic sealer.

    Pearl Ex & Stampin’ Emboss Enamel - Make a “tile” consisting of several layers of enamel on a surface (cardstock, shrink plastic, etc.).  Brush some Pearl Ex on between layers, if desired, to add color.  After heating the last layer, while it’s still hot, stamp an image into the tile.  Use clear or colored pigment on your stamp to avoid damaging it & to help keep it from sticking.  Add a dusting of Pearl Ex for highlights.

    Pearl Ex & Paperclay
    Rub Pearl Ex on to create highlights.  Spray with acrylic sealer.
     

    REVERSE STENCIL – REVERSE MASK

    This is something that you would do when you want to put a “larger” stamp inside a “smaller” stamp…..example: Using a reverse stencil of a jar.  stamping the sand from Fish Frolics inside the jar from Jar of Fun set.

    Directions:
    Find a stamp with a large open area (ex: cauldron (Happy Fright Night) or jar (Jar of Fun)
    Stamp this image on a piece of scratch paper.  Cut out the open area, on the “outline” of the image, with a craft knife.  You now have a “stencil” of the rubber stamp!

    1.  Stamp the image on front of the card.
    2.  Place your stencil over the stamped image….aligning the stencil on the image.
    3.  Take the next stamp image & stamp it in the stenciled image.
    Remove the stencil….you have now stamped the larger image to fit inside the stamped image on your card.
     

    PAPERCLAY

    1.  Prepare Paperclay® by rolling it out or flattening it to about 1/4" thick. Make sure the surface is level so that you get a good even stamp. Flattening with the back of a very large wooden stamp works well for achieving a perfectly flat surface.
    2. Rolling out Paperclay® on plastic wrap or waxed paper makes it easier to handle Paperclay®.
    3. Pigment inks  or Fabrico fabric markers work best for stamping in Paperclay® . Watercolor inks will tend to bleed and leave a blurry image.
    4. After rolling out the Paperclay®, load stamp with ink and stamp into the moist Paperclay®.
    5. To cut out the stamped images from the flattened Paperclay® you can use scissors and cut it like you would paper. Also you may want to try turning a drinking glass upside down and using it like a cookie cutter to cut perfect circles.
    6. Another method for cutting shapes out of the flattened Paperclay® is to use a toothpick and trace around the stamped image pressing the toothpick in at a 45 degree angle.
    7. Any rough edges can be smoothed with your finger and a drop of water.
    8. Leave the stamped Paperclay® figures out to air dry hard for a day or so. If you're in a hurry, you may put the Paperclay® figures into your kitchen oven at 250 degrees for 15 minutes or until dry.
    9. After the Paperclay® has dried you can use fabric markers or any other paint to color in the outline of the stamped image if you wish.
    10. You can use embossing powder with Paperclay® by stamping on to a pre-dried piece. Dry Paperclay® is similar to wood.  When the stamped figures are completely dry, you can spray on a coat of lacquer to seal and protect them. Clear fingernail polish can also be brushed on to finish the pieces.  Be sure to keep any unused Paperclay® in a air-tight bag for future use. If it should become a little dry as you're working with it, or in the bag, you can knead a few drops of water back into it to make it fresh again.  If Paperclay® should stick to your stamp just rinse it off with water.  After the lacquer or fingernail polish has dried, you can glue earring posts or pin backs on the back of the pieces to create your own unique and wearable stamp art!
     

    BACKGROUND FUN

    Crumpled Background Paper
    Take a piece of white copy paper (use a half sheet).  Crumple up and open carefully several times. Leaving it pretty wrinkled, lay on a piece of scratch paper and brayer over it. Let dry and iron smooth.

    Wax Paper Resist
    Take a piece of wax paper and crumple it up,  open, and crumple some more. Smooth out the wax paper but leave wrinkles. To iron and create your resist paper layer as follows: white paper, glossy paper (glossy side up), I use post card size pieces, the wax paper, another piece of white paper. Iron, using dry iron, cotton setting. Next brayer over the piece of glossy paper and watch the resist pattern emerge.  Try different colors of cardstock for different effects!!

    Fusible Web Background
    Take a piece of fusible webbing and cut it slightly smaller then the piece of cardstock you are going to use it on. Hold it down at one edge and use your heat gun to melt it a bit so it will stick to the cardstock. A few holes and patterns will begin to form. Don't melt it too much. Then sprinkle all over with embossing powder. You can use one color of embossing powder or several colors. Then heat again moving your heating gun around and around. Patterns and holes will begin to appear and be embossed on the cardstock. Don't hold the heat gun too close or in one place for too long or you will lose some of the nice patterns the webbing forms.

    Spiral Background
    Take a paper towel and fold in half, again, and again until you have a long narrow folded strip of paper towel. Now take this strip and roll up carefully and secure with a rubberband. Make sure the spiral is even. Ink up the spiral and use just as you would a stamp to create a background.

    Rubberband Background
    Take a bunch of rubberbands and band together creating a tassel. Cut off the end and you have a wonderful background tool. Try using wider rubberbands but any size will work. Dab into an ink pad and just whack onto a piece of cardstock.

    Metallic Backgrounds
    Ooze metallic markers on a pallet and dab sponge into metallic juice and dab it all over black cardstock.

    Starry Night Background
    Apply about 3 drops of Embossing fluid to a clean toothbrush. Turn the brush upside down and use your finger to spray the embossing fluid onto the cardstock. Use a very light hand. You will find that you have a lot more than you expect. Pour embossing powder over, dump and heat.

    Salt Background
    Spray matte cardstock liberally with water. While still wet, run a brayer loaded with dye ink over the cardstock. Cover with sea salt. If necessary, spray more water on. Allow to dry. When dry, brush the sea salt off.

    Polished Stone using Refill Inks
    instructions by Rhonda Neill
    Here's how I do my polished stone.  It's so easy. I like to use Ancient
    Page reinkers because they dry fast and are fade resistant.  I also use Krylon
    brand metallic pens, they come in gold, silver and copper.

    I soak a cotton ball or make up round (not a sponge-a cottony thiny I
    buy at pic n save) in regular rubbing alcohol then put 2 drops of ancient
    page ink.  You can use 2 different colors or the same.  I like Foxglove
    which matches our Lovely Lilac or Pink Passion (which matches
    Clearsnaps Primrose).

    Dot a few dots of Krylon pen onto white glossy paper. Immediately
    start dabbing the cotton ball onto the krylon dots/paper and cover
    the glossy paper, adding dots of krylon as you go.  Experiment with 3
    colors if you like but I usually stop with 2.

    You can stamp on this sheet.  You can emboss on this or spray with
    webbing and use as a background.

    You can seal it or not.  A little bit of metallic color may rub off but it
    doesn't affect the image.  It has beautiful reflective qualities to it and
    looks very rich and vibrant.  I just love it and it's so incredibly easy!!

    Polished Stone using Radiant Pearls
    submitted by Russell White
    This is so easy and looks like a  million dollars. Everyone loves doing
    this, because everything turns out beautiful.
    I use 3-4 colors of Radiant Pearls.  Put a small amount on an old  CD.  Use
    either a sponge, cotton ball or one of those flat circle  makeup applicator
    pads--or all three.  Dip the sponge/cotton ball/pad  into rubbing alcohol--
    depending on the desired look, you want it to  be moist but not dripping.
    Then dip the sponge/cotton ball/pad into  one of the colors of radiant
    pearls and apply to coated cardstock.   Have fun dapping, swirling,
    stroking, streaking.  Add a second color-- use another sponge/cotton
    ball/pad.  Then take a Kyrlon Pen and add  some gold/silver/bronze
    accents.  Add a third with another  sponge/cotton ball/pad, color mixing
    the metallic color into your creation.  Go wild, go creative--swirl, dab,
    streak, stroke.  Let  dry.  Takes about 10-15 minutes, depending on the
    amount of color you  have laid down.  Metallic will be fully dry in 24
    hours--just be  careful not to rub too much until then.

    You can also sprinkle some salt on your creation for an interesting  affect.
    After it dries, brush salt off.

    Also, you can spritz with rubbing alcohol for a water color effect.

    I suggest that you wear disposable gloves to protect your hands.
    Once you start--you will not be able to quit.

    You can use this for backgrounds, you can emboss on it after it  dries,
    you can stamp on it after it dries.  Punch it and glue the punch pieces
    to your work, or take the punched background and mount on solid
    color cardstock.
     

    ACRYLIC PAINT

    1.  Squeeze small amounts of acrylic paint onto a plate.  Apply the paint directly to the stamp using a foam brush.  If stamping on fabric mix Fabric Painting Medium with the acrylic paints to keep painted fabric supple.
    2.  Stamp the image onto smooth fabric, wood, or walls.  (When stamping on fabric, you may also use Fabrico pads or markers.)  Stamps should be cleaned immediately.  After allowing the paint to dry for 24 hours, fabric may be laundered as usual.
    (Tip:  In a shallow pan, place very moist paper towels at the bottom.  When using several different stamps & paints…place the stamp face down on the wet paper towels to keep the paint from drying on your stamps until you’re ready to clean them.)
     

    WALL STAMPING

    There were a few variations & tips on this.  First of all you can stamp on your walls using acrylic paint or the Fabrico Crafters Ink.  A tip: To keep acrylic paint from drying on your stamps.  Take a shallow dish & place very damp paper towels.  Place the images face down on the towels in-between stamping various images.  This keeps the paint moist on your stamp.  Be sure to clean your stamps ASAP....keep an old toothbrush handy to aid in getting into tight spots.

    You can apply acrylic paint to your image in a few different ways.  Try whatever works for you!
    A.  Put paint on a paper plate.  Take a sponge brush & grab a little paint.  Sponge paint onto stamp.
    B.  Take a damp sponge & place on a paper plate.  Put paint on a the sponge to use as a “stamp pad”.
    C.  Fold felt up & put paint on the felt.....use this as a “stamp pad”.

    1.  Apply paint to stamp & gently stamp the wall with your image.  If it messes up....have baby wipes on hand to IMMEDIATELY get the paint off the wall.  Try again.
     

    WINDOWPANE

    1. Use approximately a 5 x 5 (or smaller) acetate piece. Stamp image(s) on acetate with permanent black ink, let dry.
    2. Turn acetate over and put on the back side of acetate a quarter size blob of Diamond Glaze. Spread around with your finger but don't go all the way to the edge (you don't want the Diamond Glaze to smoosh out and stick to your work surface).
    3. Use 3-4 colors of re-inkers and drop one drop of each in various spots on the Diamond Glaze.  Swirl with your finger to join colors but try not to mix too much.
    4. Sprinkle on some gold glitter. Have a piece of white tissue paper cut to a size a little larger than your acetate piece. Wad up tissue, then unfold and pat onto the back of the acetate piece with your finger. Let this dry overnight.
    5. Trim to size desired with paper trimmer. Using a gold pen finish off the acetate edges. Layer and mount to card.
     

    COLLAGE

    The first step to starting collage is to create a collage box & add any items that could be used in collage work. A collage box will help inspire you by keeping all of your materials in one place. Collage helps you extend your stamp collection by allowing you to add other elements to your stamped work.

    Here are examples to get you started:
    Worn Out or Cheap Playing Cards * Buttons * Scraps of Ribbon, String and Cord * Beads & Old Costume Jewelry  * Scraps of Colored Paper * Cancelled Postage Stamps (soak off paper in water before using) * Sales Tags * Old Road Maps * Cancelled Tickets

    The second step is to alter & manipulate those materials….papers maybe sniped or torn & objects can be aged.

    To alter color & shading, you can do several things:
    A traditional method of coloring & toning would be to add a thin wash of watercolor paint to the paper or object being used.  Any black or white images will be infused with a thin transparent color.
    Or
    Direct to Paper techniques are ideal for “aging” paper or objects & can also be used to emphasize the torn edges of a piece of paper….
    Browns & Blacks are good for simulating age & Gold, used sparingly can create a translucent layer of shimmer.
    Or
    For the greatest amount of control ink can be transferred from the pad to a sponge or stipple brush onto your card or object.
    Keep layers translucent, so that the original colors beneath are hinted at, adds depth & delicacy to a collage.

    The third step is to layer papers…varying them in size & shape.  Paste them together to form a patchwork.  Edges of paper could be randomly torn or neatly cut.

    The final step is stamping.  Creative combinations of images are at the very heart of collage.
     

    CERAMIC STAMPING

    Pre-Glazed Ceramic item (frame, vase, etc)
    Permanent Paint (like…Décor-It from Ranger Industries or Dr. Ph. Martin’s Metal Craft Paint)
    Stamps (bold works best)
    Pottery sponge, paper towels, spray sealant, solvent-based cleaner, non-porous palette

    Instructions:
    1. Prepare the ceramic surface by washing it with warm soapy water.  Allow to dry completely before decorating.
    2. Apply a small amount of paint to a pottery sponge, tapping the excess paint on paper towels.
    3. Press sponge onto the ceramic piece with a small amount of pressure.  Repeat until object is covered, allowing some of the white ceramic to show through.  This has created a background.  (You may leave the background white & simply stamp all over the object.)
    4. Apply paint to a sponge & tap your stamp onto the sponge.
    5. Gently press the stamp onto the ceramic piece to prevent sliding and smudging.
     (If smudging occurs, wipe the area clean with a solvent based cleaner and reapply paint.)
    6. Spray frame with a sealant to prevent chipping.
    Variations:
    Add texture to ceramic pieces by stamping your images in pigment ink & embossing with different colored powders.  Gently wipe the finished piece with a soft cloth to remove excess embossing powder before sealing.
     

    PUNCHES


    Punches for Borders:
    1. Use punches to make a decorative border.  Remove sides from corner punches with a screwdriver or edge of scissors. Insert screwdriver into opening and pull towards you to free one side at a time. Do not worry they are designed to come apart and go back together again.

    2. Now draw a line on a piece of vellum or card stock and punch on the edge of cardstock carefully lining up edge with pencil line. Punch once, now move to right of first punch lining up the edge with the center of the first punch and the top with your pencil line. Continue to edge of cardstock.

    3. Now with hole punches punch various holes in the punch outs to make a lace design. This would work well with the clover corner punch and the tiny scallop and corner lace punches.

    Vellum & Punches
    1. Punch shapes out of brightly colored paper (anything from the Bold Brights Line plus Summer Sun and Lime Green etc) and glue to white cardstock then cover with a vellum overlay for a softer color appearance.
    2. Glue punched shapes to the backside of vellum tea-light shades for “wine glasses”, etc.

    Tips for Better Punching
    1.  Punch through foil & then lubricate a sticking punch by punching through wax paper several times.
    2.  Place a sticking punch in the freezer for 20 minutes to contract & shrink the metal parts.
    3.  New punches will loosen up with continued use.
    4.  Tap a sticking punch on the table top to release the mechanism.
    5.  Stand up when punching to gain more leverage, and always punch down on a hard surface rather than "in the air".
    6.  Use the punch upside down for more precise placement, and for even more added leverage.
    7.  The border punches are made to punch paper, not cardstock, so they are somewhat difficult. place the punch (with paper inside) on   the floor & step on it to get it to punch through.
     

    FABRICO FABRIC STAMPING

    Fabric * Fabrico Ink Pads * Hard Surface  * Cardboard * Fabrico Markers * Stamps

    Instructions:
    1. Wash your fabric without fabric softener, this is to remove 'sizing'.
    2. Dry fabric without using a fabric sheet softener.
    3. Iron your fabric so you have a nice smooth surface to work with.
    4. Find a hard surface to stamp on.
    5. If you are stamping on a shirt or bag (or anything with 2 layers), you will need a piece of cardboard to place between the 2 layers of fabric, to avoid it going through the top layer onto the second layer.
    6. Ink stamp by tapping the stamp onto the pad. Check for nice, even coverage. Do not press or rub, as this puts too much ink on the stamp.
    7. Position onto fabric and apply firm, even pressure. Hold in place for 30-45 seconds. Coarser fabrics like canvas require more pressure.
    8. Complete your design.
    9. Allow to air dry.
    10. Iron either side of fabric to heat-set ink.
    11. Wait at least 48 hours before washing.

    Cleaning Up:
    Clean stamps as soon as possible. Two clean up pads are ideal. Keep one wet and the other dry. Do not let the ink dry on the stamps.
    Tips:
    Plan design first; play with stamps on paper or an old piece of material. Odd numbers of images, patterning or color are most appealing.   If you make a mistake, wash fabric immediately with soap and water.  Heat set outline before coloring in with Fabrico markers. Otherwise, you will smear the ink.  Use Fabrico markers to touch up stamped image if necessary.  Use sponge daubers or sponge to create a colored background.  Wash stamped fabric inside out, in cool water and line dry to keep colors their brightest.

    FABRICO/Fading on Fabric Solutions:
    1.  Wash fabric without using fabric softener or dryer sheets.
    2.  Stamp your images (bold works best).  Make sure you keep the stamp pressed down for a little while.  You have to give the ink time to sink into the fabric.  (Some people let it dry overnight before heat setting.)

    Heat Setting – 3 different ways
    A.  After you stamp (& color if needed), place a sheet of wax paper onto the image.  With a warm iron, iron the wax paper onto the fabric.  This seals in the colors (this technique was done when “air brushed” T-Shirts were in).  You may also iron the wax paper onto the inside of the shirt too.

    B.  Put your fabric in the dryer on high/cotton setting 15 to 30 minutes.

    C.  Heat set it with an iron, making sure it is warm enough.  Keep the iron moving & in an area for a good 30 seconds.  Check carefully so it won’t burn.
     

    DYED RIBBON

    Cut ribbon length.  Hold ribbon down on open pad with a sponge.  Gently pull ribbon end to dye length of ribbon.  The more times you run your ribbon through the color, the darker the ribbon becomes.  Ink on ribbon will not dry as fast as ink on paper.  Blot the ribbon with tissue or paper towel – or place it in a netted bag (like the ones to launder nylons) & place in dryer….then hot glue to card.
     

    BLEACH PAINTING ON CARDSTOCK

    1. Emboss an image with black pigment ink & clear powder onto “colored” cardstock.  Embossing the image helps to keep the liquid bleach that you are painting with inside the image lines.  Let dry for 24 hours or heat with a heat tool for quicker results.  You can color in the “white” areas with markers.
    2. Take a damp synthetic bristled brush to paint in your images.  A synthetic brush is recommended because it won’t get ruined as natural bristles.  Be sure to clean your brush under water thoroughly.  You may also use a Q-Tip to paint into large areas to be bleached.
    There are different bleaches & gels on the market….experiment.  Clorox Advantage has been highly recommended.
     

    BLEACHING BACKGROUNDS

    Using Q-Tips dipped in bleach….create backgrounds (like swirls in the snow).  Use your imagination.
    Use a cheap toothbrush & splatter with it.
    Experiment with different colored cardstock.  You may have to apply bleach more than once in an area.  Let dry between coats.
     

    BLEACH STAMPING

    Household bleach (the regular kind for laundry)
    Dishwasher gel (look for hypochlorites on the label)

    Bleach Stamping on Fabric
    1. Testing:  Test the reaction of bleach on fabric you want to use before you spend a lot of time stamping.  Some fabrics don’t bleach well.  One reason to test fabric is because it won’t always be white when bleached!  Black fabric (& cardstock) in particular can change to many colors.  You’ll see a reaction fairly quick….though gel takes longer than liquid bleach.  Cheaper fabric is usually better because it’s less colorfast.
    2. Safety:  You should do this in a well ventilated area.  Please be careful if you have respiratory problems.  As far as stamps go, there shouldn’t be a problem using bleach on your stamps.  Clean them well when done.
    3. Gel vs. Liquid Bleach:  Liquid bleach tends to bleed & spread.  The gel stays put, but takes longer to react & the color change isn’t always dramatic.
    4. Stamps:  Solid or fairly simple stamps are recommended on fabric.
    Instructions:
    1. Use a sponge brush to “paint” gel to the stamp.  Thinly coat the surface, but try not to gum up the cracks, since this can obscure details.  If you are doing a garment, remember to put something between the front and back.
    2. Stamp your image onto the fabric firmly (Bold images work best).  Remove the stamp and let dry or heat with a heat tool.  (Note:  By using the heat tool to dry the detergent, this will help make it so that it doesn’t smear while doing the rest of the fabric.
    3. Once you’ve stamped your images, wait and watch.  The gel is weaker than liquid so the color change takes longer & sometimes not as pronounced.  Even so, you may like a lesser change.
    4. If you like what you see, rinse the piece in water to remove the gel.  Then iron it dry, if you’re in a hurry or put it in the dryer.  This stops the bleaching reaction.  Another way to stop the bleaching process, when you like what you see, is to use vinegar or baking soda.  This neutralizes the bleach.  Whatever is easier for you.
    Uses:
    1. If it’s a garment that you’ve stamped, rinsed, & dried….it’s ready for use at this time.
    2. If it’s a bleached stamped swatch, you can use fusible webbing (wonder-under) and iron it to a card or to attach it to a garment.  If attaching it to a garment you can sew around the edges, fringe if you like &/or use wonder-under or sew it on.
     

    BLEACH STAMPING/CARDSTOCK

    Before stamping or using bleach, be sure that your area is well ventilated and is protected.  You may consider wearing clothing that you don’t mind messing up should bleach get on you.  There are a few different ways to apply liquid bleach to your stamps.
    1. Paper Towel Pad:  Pour fresh liquid bleach onto a bed of folded paper towels….not too much bleach, making sure it’s wet but not full of puddles.
    2. Fine Mist Spritzer Bottle (like Judikins):  Put undiluted liquid bleach in the bottle & mist over a protected area…..spray away from your face…wave the stamp though the mist.  Don’t spray directly onto the stamp.  The stamp only needs to be barely damp to work on your cardstock.  You’ll know that it works for you when you’ve tested this onto scrap cardstock.
    3. Felt Pad:  Instead of using paper towels as a pad….make one of felt.  Saturate the felt.  You can pour the bleach out when done & reuse the container later with fresh bleach.

    The containers people have used for their paper towel pad or felt pads have been the bottom of Tupperware, a sandwich size Glad container or recycle a styrofoam meat tray. Keeping bleach in a spritzer bottle or container….you’ll notice that bleach will become cloudy with time.  This is the bleach reacting to light (notice that bleach bottles are opaque).  Just pour out unused bleach & refresh your container when ready to use again.

    Experiment for what works right for you & practice.  When using the paper towel pad or felt pad…..dab (not push the stamp too hard in the bleach) your stamp onto the bleach pad a few times to make sure you have it wet & covered.  Stamp your images onto the cardstock.  Hold the stamp down for several seconds, so that the detail of the stamp gets impressed onto the paper.  If you want a lighter/less detailed look…hold the stamp down not for very long.  Watch the change.  Clean your stamps immediately after using them & dry…..Stampin’ Mist is a cleaner for this.
     

    LEATHER STAMPING

    Materials:
    Rubber Stamps
    Leather (Can buy kits too!  Like photo frame, coaster or checkbook)
    Brush markers or dye-based ink, Fabrico Crafter Ink
    Stamp Cleaner
    Leather Sheen (a spray to protect the leather)
    Steps:
    1.  Ink stamp with different color brush markers or ink pads. Stamp leather with different images, reinking stamp after each impression. Clean stamp with stamp cleaner when changing colors.  You might find it helpful  to make paper patterns to plan the design before stamping directly onto leather.
    2.  Once design is completely stamped and dry, spray Leather Sheen to protect the stamped images.

    Variations and Tips:
    1.  Select stamps and colors to coordinate with photograph (if doing a frame) or room decor.
    2.  Stamp small pieces of leather in other colors and cut into different shapes. Adhere leather pieces, beads and buttons to photo frame for a three-dimensional effect.
     

    WOOD STAMPING

    Some raw wood tends to cause your ink to "bleed", and some finished wood is too slick to hold the ink.
    For best results:
    1.  Lightly sand the wood until smooth.  Take a tack cloth & clean off dust from sanding.
    2.  Spray seal with an clear acrylic sealer or with a polyurethane stain.  Let dry.
    3.  Emboss your images with Colorbox inks.
    4.  Color outline images in with watered down acrylic paints for a more transparent look.
    5.  Seal your wood item with clear acrylic sealer spray or brush on a clear sealer & let dry.
    A couple of variations (bold images work best):
    1.  You may choose to take a sponge brush & apply acrylic paint to the stamp image & stamp on wood.
    2.  You may want to stamp images in Fabrico ink pads & not emboss your images.  Be sure to heat set with a blow dryer or heat tool.
     

    WOODBURNING IMAGES

    Wood Object (plate, tray, box, etc.) * Rubber Stamps * Light Colored Dye-Based Ink * Woodburning Tool * Tack Cloth Fine Sandpaper * Oil Color Pencils * Cotton Swabs

    Instructions:
    1. Lightly sand wood to make surface smooth.  Use tack cloth to remove any loose dust.
    2. Ink stamp with dye-based ink & stamp onto surface of wood.  Re-ink stamp after each impression.
    3. Use wood burning tool to trace over stamped impression.  The image will turn brown.  The longer the tip is left on the wood, the darker brown the image will become.  (chisel tip)
    4. Add color to stamped, burned image using oil pencils.  Blend the colors with cotton swabs.  Spray seal.
     

    DECOUPAGE/WOOD

    Wood Object * Rubber Stamps * Pigment Ink * Embossing Powder * Acrylic Paint or Stain * Watercolors or Any Coloring Medium * Brushes to Apply Paint or Stain * Paper * Sandpaper * Tack Cloth * Embossing Heat Tool * Decoupage Glue * Decoupage Varnish

     Instructions:
    1. Sand the wood with sandpaper, then wipe it lightly with a tack cloth.
    2. Basecoat your wood object with stain or acrylic paint.  Let dry & apply another coat if necessary.
    Stamping/Embossing/Coloring
    3.    Stamp & emboss images on paper.
    4.    Color in images with watercolor, pencils….whatever the medium of your choice.
    5.    Cut out images & see how you want to arrange on wood surface.
    Decoupage/Finishing
    6.    Use decoupage glue to paste your images in place.  Let dry thoroughly.
    7. Apply several layers of decoupage varnish to the surface of the wood object, allowing each layer to dry before adding the next, until all images are embedded in the varnish & the surface of the wood is smooth & even.
     

    PULL CARD – MOVING CARD

    Stamps * Ink Pads * Utility Knife * Double-Stick Mounting Tape * String, Ribbon, or Yarn * Monoadhesive

    1. Choose the image that you want to slide on the card.  Stamp it on a scarp of cardstock, color & cut out.
    2. Stamp & color on main card.
    3. Cut a narrow strip on your card (about ¼” wide) where you want the image to slide.  DO NOT cut all the way to the edge of the card.
    4. Cut a narrow strip of cardstock (no wider than you image & long enough to fold around the cut strip on the main card.)  Fold this narrow strip around the cut strip on the main card & attach it to itself with Monoadhesive.  This attached piece should slide freely across the cut strip.  It needs to be a fairly close fit around the cut strip or else the image will wobble as you slide it.
    5. Attach your image to the sliding piece on the front of the card with double-sided, heavy duty mounting tape.
    6. Attach a piece of sting, ribbon or yarn to the sliding piece on the back of the card.  BE SURE that it is not attached to anything else.  You can use the heavy duty mounting tape for this too.  The ribbon will extend several inches past both ends of the card.
    7. Seal a backing over the working parts to hide your secrets.  As you glue your main card onto the backing, leave unglued spaces for you ribbon to pull freely.
     

    GIFT BAGS

    Stamp your image on a square of fabric & apply some fuseable web to the back. Iron the image onto the bag and add a matching paper twist bow.  You can  add embellishments such as buttons & other little things by simply gluing them onto the bag.   You can leave the bag plain or wheel or stamp a pattern onto the bag before attaching fabric to the gift bag.

    Problem –Rolling over the handles of the gift bags with the wheel stamps…you get white gaps.  Solutions:
    1.  Roller below the handles only:
    2.  You can take card stock the width of your bag by about 6-8 inches, fold it in half, (with of bag sides together). Following the fold line, cut a slit in the center of the fold, large enough to slip handles through. Looks like a roof on the bag.

    Lunch Sacks:
    Fold down the top of the bag at least twice.  Punch holes on the fold in the middle.  Thread with raffia, organza ribbon, etc & make a bow.  Or you can attach handles to your lunch sacks “after” you have stamped & decorated them.  Make handles out of unopened paper twist & tape inside.  Reinforce bottom of the bag with a piece of cardboard., to keep the lunch sack/gift bag from crumpling in.
     

    MARSHMALLOW STAMPING

    1. The Marshmallows
    Buy marshmallows that are loosely packed…that don’t look gooey or noticeably stuck together.  The surface should have a lightly dusted dull appearance & not sticky.
    2. The Stamp & Stamp Pad
    The stamp should be clean.  Ink a blank stamp pad with food coloring very lightly.  Use the minimum amount that works.  If you over ink the stamp pad, you will get illegible blotches.  If you over ink the stamp pad, just press with paper towels to mop up the excess.
    3. The Technique
    Practice to get the right touch.  A light quick touch on the stamp pad followed by a light quick imprint of the marshmallows works best.  You could impress the 2 ends of the marshmallow or try stamping the curved side.
     

    STAMPING IN CHOCOLATE

    Clean Rubber Stamps * Chocolate * Small Bottle of Glycerin (available at pharmacies & candymaking stores) * Heat Tool * Refrigerator * If you make molded chocolates, you will need a candy mold.
    Stamps
    Be sure your stamps are clean & that the inks you’ve used before on them have all been non-toxic inks.  If you are using new stamps, you should wipe them before use.  Practice to see which images work best for you.
    Chocolate
    Read the label of the chocolates you buy with stamping in mind.  Avoid chocolates with paraffin or beeswax.  The best chocolates, in terms of taste, smoothness, & stampability, are the ones richest in cocoa butter – the only vegetable oil that’s solid at room temperature, but which melts quite nicely in your mouth.
    To Make Chocolate Bars
    1. Take a candy bar out of the refrigerator & unwrap it.
    2. Point the heat tool only at the area that you want to stamp.  Do a quick count to three (you’ll see a sheen on the chocolate as it starts to melt), then turn off the heat tool.
    3. Stamp the chocolate while it’s still hot.

    Molded Chocolates
    1. Melt some chocolate chips & spoon them into the chocolate mold.  Tap the mold on the counter several times to shake out the air bubbles.
    2. Cool the chocolate in your freezer. This helps the chocolate to set more quickly & makes it easier to remove.  After the chocolate is solid, remove it from the freezer & warm the chocolate with the heat tool….continue just like in the instructions for the chocolate bars above.
     

    CAKE STAMPING #1

    I decorate cakes and have been amazed at how well you can stamp on cakes if you follow a few simple guidelines. The easiest frosting to stamp on is the rolled fondant frosting. I buy mine at the local craft store in with their cake supplies. You can stamp on this with either regular frosting or food coloring (the paste type coloring always works best.) I have stamped on regular frosting using the paste food coloring but you have to be sure that the frosting has dried for a good 2 hours before you attempt to stamp on it. I do prefer the rolled fondant if I'm going to stamp because you can stamp on it before you lay it on the cake making it very easy to stamp on the sides of the cake and not just the top. I have a mini airbrush for cake decorating so I can also color in the images as well. This is a great idea for your children's birthdays because you can coordinate everything right down to the cake.
    The final option for stamping on cakes is to buy the sheets of rice paper. This is what the bakery decorator’s use. (If you go to a bakery and look at the Disney cakes that look like the characters have been drawn on, that is a rice paper overlay no taste to it and it absorbs right into the cake frosting.)
     

    CAKE STAMPING #2

    Stamp your image on rice paper.  This is also called wafer paper.  It is available at some cake supply stores & may be available form your local bakery.
    Stamp your image with your Stampin’ Pads.  They are non-toxic & will not hurt anyone if they ingest the tiny amount of ink on their slice of cake.  If you feel squeamish aobut using regular ink, you can make up your own “ink pad” using a blank ink pad or paper towel.  Apply aomewhat watered down paste color to the pad (be sure to protect your table).  Press in your stamp.  Test on paper first.  If you use the liquid food color from the grocery store, your image may not be as dark as you need it to be & you may end up using up quite a lot of food coloring anyway.

    (I have found that the Stampin’ Pads are a lot easier to use!)  Place your stamped rice paper on your iced cake.  After a while the rice paper will dissolve into the icing & only the image will remain visible.  You can choose to decorate the edge of the rice paper to sore of “frame’ the image.  A shell border looks nice.

    *You can stamp directly onto buttercream icing.  First ice & smooth your cake.  Allow the buttercream to set for at least a few hours & preferable overnight.  The icing should have a “crust” on it.  GENTLY stamp your image onto the buttercream.  Color with diluted paste colors, (dilute with vodka or lemon extract – remember alcohol will evaporate).  Or use your Stampin’ Pads in the colors needed, no coloring may be necessary.

    You can stamp an image on paper. Trace the image on the backside on the paper because you will need the reverse image.  Cover the backside of the picture with waxed paper.  Use a decorating bag filled with clear piping gel (available at cake & craft stores) & a #1 round decorating tip to copy the image.  Invert the wax paper, piping gel side down, & place it on your iced & smoothed cake.  Gently press around the image, pushing the gel onto the icing on the cake.  Remove the waxed paper.  Outline the image on the cake with icing.  Fill in with colored icing – let me recommend stars for the beginning cake decorator
    With any of these methods practice first.&