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TRADITIONAL – SOLID STAMPING

TWO-STEP STAMPING

COLORBOOK

BRUSH MARKER

MASKING

OMITTING

RAINBOW INK PADS

TIE-DYED

Rollagraph® & WHEELS

Mini Rollagraph® & Wheels

Ink cartridges are PERMANENT in these Mini Rollagraph Handles.  Just snap in the wheel
of your choice and  ink the wheel either by turning the wheel by hand holding it by the very
edges or on scratch paper first for even distribution of the ink. With even light pressure, roll
the wheel across the paper. Try on scratch paper FIRST, it can be tricky if you push to hard.
Try rolling away from you, don't block your arm with your body, it will make you tilt.  Or try
pulling the wheel towards you.  Creates fun, continuous images in seconds!
 

COLOR DABBING

KISSING

REPEATING AN IMAGE – FADING OUT

STREAKING

LOOSE GLITTER

GLITTER & LACE BACKGROUND

GLITTER WINDOW

GLITTER/Candle Stamping

LIQUID APPLIQUE

LEATHER TEXTURE – SUEDE EFFECT

LIQUID APPLIQUE/With Cloud Stencil

COLORED PENCILS

SKELETON LEAVES

EGGSHELL CRACKLE

GLASS STAMPING

GHOSTING – Resist without Embossing

GOLD ENCORE RESIST

RUBBER CEMENT RESIST

SEALING WAX

MELTED CRAYON BACKGROUND

COMPUTER IRON-ON TRANSFER

You Need: 100% Cotton Fabric * Basic Black Ink Pad * Scissors *
Computer Iron-on Transfer Paper * Iron * Markers - regular waterbased markers
Directions:
1.  Wash the fabric without fabric softener.  Iron out any wrinkles if any.
2.  Stamp your image(s) with the black ink pad on to the transfer paper.  Color in
the image(s) with markers.  Shade with deeper colors in the same color family if you want to.
3.  Cut close to the image leaving about 1/4 “ around it & a little tag (as a finger grip).
 Fold the tag back to the backside of the image.
4.  Place the image upside down onto fabric & iron in a circular motion.... counting to 10.
Lift off the iron, pull up on the little tag that you’ve folded back.  Pull up the entire backing
of the image.  You have now transferred your image onto the fabric.
**Note:  If you hold the iron too long onto the fabric, the backing will stick to the fabric
& not come off.  Also if you don’t hold it down long enough, the image will peel off.
 

VELVET STAMPING – EMBOSSED VELVET

PAINTED VELVET

**Tips**
This technique is for cards & decorative purposes, not for wearables.  The markers are
not colorfast. You can use color on dark velvets, too!  It is recommended that you use
Colorbox Metallic Ink Pads. To not get a print from the seam holes in an iron, use the
back part of the iron where there are no holes. You may also use a Teflon pressing cloth
or just move the iron the entire time.
 

AIR ART GUN

AIR ART GUN/THUMPING

AIRBRUSHED WATERCOLOR

WATER MIST

WATERCOLOR/Grabbing Color

WATERCOLOR PENCILS

Applying & Blending Watercolor Pencils

Watercolor Techniques

ENCORE WATERCOLOR

PIGMENT INK WATERCOLORING

RADIANT PEARLS WATERCOLORING

DIE-CUTS

CHALKING - PASTELS

Shading:
May be used wet or dry.  Blue, Grey or Black are good color choices for shadows.
Layer colors.  Start with the lighter color & apply a deeper color of the same tone
on top of the lighter shades.

Reverse Chalk Resist:
Using black (or dark) cardstock as your base, rub chalk all over it, creating a
background. (use a dauber duo or cotton ball) Ink up your stamp on the
VersaMark pad, then stamp into the chalk -- the VersaMark removes the
chalk where the image is.

Chalked Embossing:
Chalk will stick to embossing powders, especially white.  For best results start
by stamping on dark colored cardstock in the frost white Colorbox & embossing
in any of our white embossing powders.  Apply the chalk to the white areas of
your stamped image.  After chalking rub with a eraser to get rid of the powdery
look & make the image shine.

Chalked Applique:
Using the white Liquid Applique, embellish the details of your work.  Allow it to
dry before puffing it up with a heat tool & then apply chalk to it.  It picks up the
color & holds.

Chalked Sponging:
Using sponges & chalks with your stencils will give you beautiful soft clouds,
muted dots & stripes & gently blended backgrounds.

Chalked Pigment:
Stamp a solid image in white pigment ink on a dark cardstock.  Let it dry &
then color lightly with chalks.

Chalked Silhouette:
This method works best with bold images.  Example using SU DD Grapes -
Stamp the leaves in green & the grapes in purple.  Apply the same shades to
chalk over the images.  This will give it a soft airbrushed feel to them.

Marbled Chalk Background:
Put about an inch of water into a pan slightly bigger than your card. With
a butter knife, scrape chalk dust off a 2 or 3 colors onto the surface of the
water. Place the paper flat onto the surface of the water  it will pick up the
color, immediately lift the cardstock back out of the water. Allow the
cardstock dry flat. If your paper develops puckers, it can be ironed to flatten
it back out.  Our you can press the paper between heavy books to flatten it out.

Marbled Chalk Background 2:
Chalk and water can be combined for a pastel background effect. Apply
chalk in one or more colors randomly to the paper. Using a wet rag or
sponge, pull and blend the chalked areas as desired. This technique is an
excellent way to add color to freezer paper that will be used for gift wrap
or gift bags. Once the background is dry, it can be stamped over, and it
does not require spray fixative to remain in place.

Chalk on Dark Paper:
Create stunning designs.  Stamp a design using white pigment ink & white
embossing powder then heat.  Apply chalk with a cotton swab around &
in images.  Take a paper towel to wipe off excess chalk.

Chalk/Blender Pen:
Chalk colors can be beautifully blended with the blender pen. The blender
fluid also "sets" the chalk, eliminating the need for spray fixative.

Finishing Your Chalked Project: If desired, use a spray fixative or
hairspray when finished.  This will also deepen the colors and add sheen.
You need only a light coating.
 

GRAY GUIDING:

SILVER ENCORE GUIDING

POPPIN' PASTELS – CHALK RESIST – FAUX OIL PASTEL

Variation of Poppin’ Pastels

REDIFORM OR GRID TECHNIQUE

FUN FOAM – ALMOST LEATHER (feels like leather after it’s heated)

Fun FoamVariation:
1.  Cut a piece of fun foam to the same size as the block of wood on your stamp.
2.  Using a stylus to hold the foam in place on your work surface, heat with your
heat tool.
3.  After edges curl a bit, stamp design (inked or uninked) into the foam. Let cool.
(It feels like leather when cool.)
4.  Trim and mount to project.
 

THUMPING

DIRTY STAMPING (VARIATION OF THUMPING)

TAG ART

PHOTO POSTCARDS

PHOTO STAMPING (as per Suze Weinberg - The Art of Rubber Stamping)

SPONGING

1.  Sponge around paper masks which you have cut or torn or stencils.
2.  Sponge through paper doilies, lace or netting for a delicate Victorian look.
3.  Sponge grass in several shades of green & applying different amounts of pressure.
4.  Sponge around die-cuts to create a silhouette.
5.  Make stencils using a different craft punches - sponge through them.

You can pat your sponges in ink pads, on chalk you can even apply color to a sponge
with your markers.

CONDENSED SPONGE CARDS

Steps:
1.  Apply ink to both sides of one small sponge
2.  Spray lightly with water
3.  Place card on larger backup scratch paper to catch excess ink
4.  Pull the inked edge of the sponge across the card (be sure to start on the
scratch paper) be sure to use one fluid motion or else you will get what I call
a hiccup.  Be sure to begin and end off the paper.
5.  Repeat step 4 as needed to achieve the desired look, or pattern. Mist
lightly with water to keep the ink flowing smoothly.

Tips:
Using rubber gloves keeps hands clean
Using one fluid motion will give you the best flow of color
sponges dry slowly, so take care in handling and storing them.

You can ink up the sponge & spritz the water on the sponge to remoisten
the ink. You can also do this with markers on the sponge & pull it across
the paper, spritz to remoistened & do it again. You can also  place the
sponge, inked up, in one place on the cardstock & twist or swirl it.
 

COMPRESSED SPONGE  (variation of condensed sponge technique)

Steps:
1. Press many different colors of markers along one cut edge of the
compressed sponge.
2. Lightly spritz colored edge of the sponge with a mixture of half
water and half Windex.
3. Run edge of sponge over surface of the card to create multi-colored
stripes, until the entire card is covered. Add any pre-stamped images if desired.
Experiment with your sponge to produce different effects like squiggles and plaids.
 
 

RAINBOW SOOT CARDS

SOOT CARDS

Directions:
1.  Light the candle & carefully move the glossy cardstock (glossy side towards flame)
over the flame.  The flame actually needs to touch the cardstock.
2.  If you hold the cardstock at an angle you will get more coverage faster.  Be
especially careful near the edges & corners, they are most apt to catch fire.
3.  When the cardstock is covered with soot to your satisfaction , stamp an uninked
stamp onto it.  Press firmly but do not wiggle.
4.  Lift straight up.
5.  Immediately spray card with a spray fixative.  Hold the can 12” - 14” above
the card.....sort of spraying away from the card.  Once the stream of spray is
coming out evenly move the nozzle toward your card....keeping a 12” distance.
 If you don’t do this, you’ll get little polka dots form the pressure in the can
pushing the soot around on the card.
Note: It’s very difficult to do this on a full size card.  It’s recommended that
you cover a piece of cardstock with soot, stamp, spray, let dry & then cut
out the image & glue it onto another piece of cardstock.
 

PAPER MACHE PAINTING & STAMPING

Directions:
1.  Spray seal the paper mache with a clear acrylic sealer spray.  Let dry.
2.  Cover entire surface with acrylic paint.  Paint several (3-4) coats & let dry in
between each coat.  Let final coat dry.
3.  Stamp images in Fabrico Real Black.  Heat set with heat tool.
4.  Take a lightly wet paint brush & dip it into the Fabrico ink pads to “paint
in each color”.  Heat set with heat tool.  The colors that were painted in will seem faded.
5.  Shade with markers - watercolor method.  The Fabrico inks seem to help the
markers go on without streaks & shading the markers make the colors more vibrant.
You can also apply the marker directly to the painted Fabrico surface.
6.  To bring out the images you can chalk around them.....blues or gray.  Apply
a little color of red pastel for cheek color.
7.  Lightly spray seal the whole object & let dry.
8.  Add embellishments.  Hot glue bows or buttons for a quick & solid adhesion.
 

ENVELOPES

Directions:
Place the wrong side of the tissue paper to the waxed side of the freezer paper…iron
together.  The freezer paper fuses to the tissue paper.  The paper is now sturdy enough
to make an envelope out of it using an envelope template.

Variation:
Before placing tissue paper on to the freezer paper... wad it up creating
wrinkles/texture and then flatten out and iron onto the freezer paper. Adds
another dimension to your paper/envelope.

Tips:
Make enough of the tissue/freezer paper for gift wrap. It always makes a great
impression when the gift wrap and envelope match. And it looks nice, too!
 

ENVELOPE GLUE

1. In a small bowl, sprinkle gelatin over the cold water to soften for 5 minutes.
 Pour in the boiling water & mix until dissolved.  Add corn syrup & extract & mix well.
2. Brush thin coating on envelope flap.  Let dry.

To store put in closed container in the refrigerator.  To use again microwave for 20
seconds on High.  Check for brushability.
 

BACKGROUND STAMPS/ENVELOPES

VELLUM ENVELOPES

CELLO BAG ENVELOPES

DOILY ENVELOPES

BAGALOPE – ENVELOPE GIFT BAG – ENVELOPE TOTE

PURSE-A-LOPE

FLOCKING

VELVET PAPER

FOILED GIFT WRAP

2.  Stamp the same image onto plain foiled holiday gift wrap, simply using a
dye-based ink.  You can cut out the whole image or parts of it…depending on
the look you want to go for.  Cut on the “inside” line of the image.

3.  Glue the foiled piece or pieces inside the embossed image on the card.
 

BUBBLE BACKGROUND

COOKIE CUTTER

CLASSIC BLOCK STAMPING – SHADOW STAMPING

Basics

2.  To get different grades of color….use a 2nd or 3rd impression….the shadow
gets increasingly lighter as you stamp.  Stamp on scratch paper first & then stamp
without reinking onto your card.  Once your impression dries, it has a nice marbled
and beautifully textured background quality with just a hint of the soft wash of
Shadow Ink color.

3.  You have now stamped a “shadow” onto your card.  The next step is to add
the image of your choice “inside” the shadow.  Black ink works best to best
emphasize your image…although any saturated color works fine.  You will see
the soft muted shadow subtly but elegantly emphasizes any image you stamp
inside of it.  Shadows make a great backdrop for highlighting any fine etching
or bold stamped image.
 

Different Techniques for Shadow Stamping

Plain Shadow

Edges Only

Shadow in a Shadow (Kissing Method)

Monoprint (Another Kissing Method)

Textures

Stamp on Stamps

Stylus Designs

Shadow, Shadow, Shadow

(Block/Shadow Stamps can be found at: Hero Arts, Impress Rubber Stamps,
Magenta, A Stamp in the Hand, Stampers Anonymous & Rubber Tree Stamps.
But remember….you can always make your own out of excess rubber!)
 

WET AND DRY EMBOSS

DRY EMBOSSING – BLIND EMBOSSING – PAPER EMBOSSING – DEBOSSING

Directions:
1.  Tape or place stencil in place over a lit lightbox.  Position card over
desired  image on stencil.  You’ll see the shape though your cardstock.
2.  Use a stylus tool to trace around perimeter of stencil shape, creating
raised or recessed effect around your stamped image.  Pressing from the
front of your card makes a recessed pattern.  Pressing from the back
makes a raised pattern.

Debossing Metal:

METAL EMBOSSING (Debossing)

1. Cut small piece of metal to fit stamp.
2. Stamp with black ink on tissue paper or vellum.
3. Place metal on soft surface or rubber mat.
4. With fine point of stylus lightly trace image of stamp onto reverse
side of metal. For a puffy embossed design lightly trace image in metal
several times.
5. Emboss into puffy areas with eraser end of pencil or other smooth
end like a Bic stick pen, you can push inside of stamped image.
6. Cut out design and apply to card or project with adhesive.
7. To add permanence (so it won't be crushed) fill in the back of
the design with plaster, wax or resin.
8. To add color or a patina, apply paint before mounting. After a
few minutes, rub off dry and polish. Varnish is optional.

Note:
This technique can also be down with 4 to 5 layers of the thick of
extra strength aluminum foil.   You will have to secure each layer
with an adhesive.  Roll the cut edges to hide the layered cuts.
Also remember to work on a soft smooth surface as the metal
will pick up any creases, dips or raised impressions.
 

FOIL STAMPING (variation of Metal Embossing)

If you are using extra strength aluminum foil…layer your foil, making
4-5 layers thick.  You will have to secure each layer with a spray adhesive.
Before stamping you must make sure the foil is smoothed out (use a credit
card or scraper). Stamp your image on the “reverse” side of the foil (the
non-shiny side)….use a dye-based ink…doesn’t matter what color.
After stamping, place foil on a magazine or cushioned surface like a mouse
pad. On the same side that you stamp, use a stylus/embossing tool to follow
your design lines.  If you are using a word or greeting stamp, you will need
to stamp it first onto thin paper, then flit it over & trace on the reverse/mirror
image side….otherwise your words will read backwards. With the stylus you
are pushing the design through to the front of the foil, you get the elegant look
of raised embossing on a metallic surface. Finished foil pieces can be trimmed
with decorative scissors & glued to fronts of cards.  They look stunning with a
window cut out of the front to fit the image too.

Other Ideas:
1.  Color in images with permanent markers, outline a bold stamp & then
fill in the background with little squiggles, lines, dashes, etc.
2.  If you don’t have extra strength aluminum foil…you can use the bottom
of a disposable pie tin or roasting pan.
 

CORK STAMPING

1. Stamp your image with Basic Black Ink Pad (if using an outline image).
2. Color in with markers.  Because the cork soaks up a lot of ink….you will have to blot the ink many times.  Let dry.
3. You may cut around the image with decorative scissors or regular scissors.
4. Hot gluing the cork, when layering, is the best way to adhere the cork to your card.
 

SHAKER CARD/Foam Core

1. Cut the foam core to the card size, then using a stamp positioner, stamp the outside image on it.  Cut out the hole just a bit larger than the image size.  (If you prefer you can just cut a simple shape as per your final outside decoration needs.)
2. Stamp the image on a decorative or plain piece of paper or cardstock that you have stamped. Carefully cut out the center just a bit smaller than the image itself.  (This is for the outside of the card.)
3. Stamp the inside on the card stock so it will be seen through the hole in the foam core.  (The easiest way to do that is to use a pencil & trace through the hole very lightly as a guide, then erase it after stamping.)
4. Glue the foam core to the card so the inside image will show through the hole & put in the confetti & glitter.  Then glue a piece of acetate over it.
5. Glue the decorative piece over all of that & put a ribbon around the sides to hide the ugly edges of the foam core.
 

SHAKER CARD/Cardstock

1.  You can make a shaker card using a stamp that has a large opening in it such as the center of a frame stamp.  Or you can cut out the lower body part of the snowman in the “Let it Snow” set and stuff him full of glitter and fake snow.
2.  Stamp and emboss image on the front of the (folded) ½ sheet of card stock.  Also at this time emboss or stamp any other images to the front of the card.
3.  With an craft knife, cut out the inside of the embossed image, so that you have a hole (opening)
4.  Use monoadhesive to attach the acetate to the inside of the front of the card.
5.  Use foam mounting tape to make a “barrier” around the acetate covered opening.  Being careful as to not let the mounting tape show through to the front side.  You need this barrier to keep the confetti, glitter or beads in.
6.  Add beads, confetti or glitter.  You can even add stamped images or shrink plastic, seeds and herbs.  What you can add is limited to your imagination.
7.  Before the next step, you can stamp or emboss the ¼ sheet of card stock with a greeting that would show through the window.
8.  Now, peel off the backing to the mounting tape and attach your ¼ sheet of card stock.
Before attaching the ¼ sheet of card stock, make sure to look to see if it was upside down or not.
 

WATER CARD – SEAL A MEAL CARD

Materials:
Bag Sealer * Plastic bag/rolls used for sealing liquids and ...foods *  water or other liquids such as shampoo, hair gel, etc. * mylar confetti or small trinkets such as flat ...beads, small shells, sand, etc. * cardstock or blank cards * utility knife * Monoadhesive or Double-Stick Tape * Rubber Stamps * Food Coloring (optional)

Directions:
Step 1: Form the pouch (using your bag sealer and plastic) with three sealed sides (2"X3" is a good size).
Step 2: Fill the pouch with a small amount of water or liquid - you only need about 1-2 tablespoons. Add your confetti or small trinkets to the  pouch. For a touch of color, use food coloring unless you’re using colored hair gel!
Step 3: Carefully press the air out of the pouch and seal the remaining side, forming a fully enclosed, fairly flat pouch with the liquid & confetti completely sealed inside. Make sure you have no leaks!
Step 4: Make your card if necessary, fold your cardstock to form a card.  Decorate your card however you wish with rubber stamps, etc.
Step 5: On the front of your card, cut out a small window with your utility knife. The size of the window should be smaller than the size of your pouch.
Step 6: Assemble the card and pouch: tape the edges of your sealed pouch to the inside of the card so that your pouch shows through the window that you cut in the front of the card. Use glue or double-stick tape to seal closed
the edges of your card. You are done! Shake your card to see the confetti float across the window in the card.

Note: If you intend to send this card through the mail, its best to enclose the card in a padded and protected mailer to avoid getting your card "popped" by the automatic letter handling machines. You want your recipient to receive an ultra cool water card, not a soggy mess!
 

STICKER PAPER

MONOCHROMATIC

PAPER TOLE

Simple Tole 1: A duplicate of an image is stamped on a different paper, colored and carefully cut out. This duplicate is then mounted on top of the original with foam mounts, causing it to be raised. One or more pieces of foam mount can be applied, depending on the height desired.

Simple Tole 2: Part of an image is carefully cut out and lifted from the surface of the card to give it "life." For example, a butterfly wing or a few petals from a flower can be lifted out. A piece of matching or contrasting cardstock can be glued to the back of your work to fill the cut areas. A simple way to tole an entire large flower is to stamp and color a duplicate image, cut out the petals up to the center, fold or curl outward, and glue the center of the flower onto its original with rubber cement.

True Paper Tole: Each element of a duplicate image is cut out separately with an X-acto® knife, curved or curled, and reapplied directly over the original. This creates a sculptured, layered, three dimensional effect.
 

True Paper Tole

Basic Technique:

HOMEMADE RUBBER STAMP INK

HOMEMADE TRANSFER INK

MARBLED TISSUE PAPER

Preparation:
1.  Crinkle tissue paper in a wadded ball then flatten out with your hands.
2.  Dilute inks with water to your preference of shading in a spritzer bottle.
3.  In small glass containers sprinkle glitter & add thinned white glue & water.
4.  Spread newspaper or protective covering over the area you will be working on.

Directions:
1.  Lay out a sheet of tissue paper.
2.  Spray your various colors of ink that you’d like on the paper.
3.  Dry with a standard blow dryer whenever your paper gets too wet to handle.
4.  Using a dropper, squirt the glitter/glue solution randomly on the paper.
5.  Continue to dry the sheet completely & put aside as you move on to the next sheet.
6.  Playing & experimenting with combinations of colors is what makes this so much fun.
When you’ve finished with your projects & your papers are dry, press lightly with an iron & fold or roll to store.
 

TISSUE STAMPING/DECOUPAGE

GLASS:
1.  With a sponge brush apply white tacky glue to glass votive or other glass candle holder.
2.  When tissue is in place, apply glue to entire glass piece.
3.  Sprinkle Dazzling Diamonds glitter all over the glass & let dry.
4.  Put a round piece of felt on the bottom.  The candle light will really dazzle.
(You can use rainbow ink pads too….be sure to use a spray fixative or a fast drying adhesive)

TISSUE STAMPING /CANDLE

Materials:
Candle (votive or pillar)
Tissue Paper (color matches candle)
Ink Pads, Markers or Colored Pencils
2-Way Glue Pen

Stamp your image onto tissue paper (you can emboss too).  Be sure to have something behind the tissue as ink will bleed through.
If using outline images….color images with markers or colored pencils.  Careful as to not tear the delicate paper.
Lightly spray the tissue with a spray fixative….this will keep colors from bleeding.
Cut or tear the image out of the tissue paper….leaving ¼ to ½ inch all the way around.
On the ¼ to ½ inch excess tissue dot here & there with 2-Way Glue.  This will keep the tissue in place & will not blow away when you use your heat tool.
Heat the tissue enough to just melt the tissue into the wax.  Keep the heat tool moving & not too close….so as to not create too many ripples or drip marks in the wax.

Other Tips:
Some people like to use a heated spoon to press onto the tissue….to get the wax to melt into it.
When you think the image is fully embedded in wax…take an old nylon stocking & rub over the entire area.  It will smooth out any ridges in the wax.
Practice on a candle to get the feel of doing this & then do the real thing.
 

GOLD-LEAF STAMPING

Faux Gold Leaf  * Duo Embellishing Adhesive Glue & Brush  (brand name) or Faux Gold Leafing Glue * Stiff Brush * Any Desired Item with a Smooth Surface

Instructions:
1. Brush glue onto the stamps, then stamp onto smooth surface.  Apply a generous amount of gold leaf to glue design.  Make sure to cover every portion of stamped design with gold leaf.  Repeat until design is covered with gold leaf.
2. Immediately wash the stamp to remove the glue.  Wait for glue to dry.
3. Brush away excess leafing using a stiff brush.
 

SHRINK PLASTIC

Heat Tool Method:
1. Gently rough up polyshrink with sandpaper.  Lightly ink stamp with black Fabrico, blot once onto scratch paper & stamp image in center of polyshrink.
2. Use blow dryer for faster drying (heat setting the Fabrico).  When ink is dry, color in with any medium as stated above.
3. You may cut the image out with decorative scissors or regular scissors….depending on the project.
4. Using a heat tool, heat image until it flattens.  The polyshrink will curl when heated and can be easily held in one place with the eraser tip of your pencil or stylus.  While image is still warm from the heat, press the wooden side of the stamp on it to flatten.
5. Be sure to spray seal for protection.

To glue shrink plastic to pin backs or cardstock….you can use E-6000 Adhesive or hot glue.

GOLD BUFFED SHRINK PLASTIC
1. Draw a design on shrink plastic with a permanent marker.  An outline shape with no details.
2. Cut this shape out & color with watercolors.
3. Paint about 4 different watercolors in a random fashion all over…layer the colors a little.  A light wash will do, color intensifies as the plastic shrinks.
4. Bake on a shrink plastic baking board (craft store buy) with baby powder under the plastic to keep it from sticking to the board.
5. After the plastic is finished shrinking QUICKLY remove from oven. *DO NOT remove from board.
6. Take a deeply etched rubber stamp & press it firmly into the shrink plastic. Press until the plastic cools.
7. Now you have your stamp design impressed into the plastic.  If it doesn't come out, you can put the shrink plastic back into the oven & reheat.  The image should flatten back out & then you can re-stamp again.
8. Take Gold Rub-N-Buff (craft store buy), go over the tops of the image.
9. Seal with a spray sealer.
*Removing the shrink plastic from the shrink plastic baking board can cool the shrink plastic too quickly to impress the image.  Let it remain on the board as you stamp in the image.

It was mentioned – but hadn’t been done yet, to try Gold Encore instead of the Rub –N – Buff.  Encore may not hold up to the spray sealer on Shrink Plastic?  Experiment.  The gold brings out the image with a nice watercolor background.

Suggestions: You can make pins, necklaces, earrings, etc.  Just be sure to punch your holes before shrinking so you can add jump rings for jewelry.
 

CLAY POTS

2.  You can paint the base of the pot with acrylic paint or leave plain.
Stamp your image (bold works best) in a Fabrico pad & apply to pot.  Be careful as the pots are curved and it's a little tricky keeping the stamps from sliding and stamping in the position you want. So go slow.  When using the Fabrico…you need to heat set the clay pot.  Heat set the clay pots with a hair dryer, heat tool or even in your oven (10 to 15 Minutes).  It gets very hot!  Be careful.

You may also use acrylic paint to stamp with instead of the crafters ink.  Take a sponge brush & apply it to your stamp.  Make sure you don't use too much paint. Also, keep the paint from drying on your stamps.  Take a shallow dish & fill it with folded paper towels & get them very moist with water.  When using a few different stamps with acrylic paint….place the stamps face down on the damp paper towels.  It keeps the paint from drying on your stamps.  When cleaning your stamps use a soft toothbrush and water in case the paint gets in the crevices.
You can emboss your images with pigment ink or Fabrico ink pads and clear powder.
For extra protection you may want to seal the clay pot when finished.  For a glossy look….spray with glossy sealer.
 

TILE STAMPING

PEARL EX

Pearl Ex & Watercoloring - Use with gum arabic (1/4 part gum arabic to 1 part Pearl Ex). The gum arabic is a binder and helps the Pearl Ex adhere to the cardstock. Mix in water to get the consistency desired and “paint” image with a brush. Let dry & spray seal.  These paints will have a “sheen” to them, & the interference & duo colors will surprise you.  If you don’t use up all the paint you made, keep it, & just add water the next time.  Experiment with different ratios of gum arabic to Pearl Ex.  This can be used on matte or glossy cardstock.  Or try this….Paint your design using watercolors as usual.  While paint is still wet, use your brush to pick up some Pearl Ex & apply to the painted area.  Try dotting small amounts here & there, or spreading it around for different effects.

Pearl Ex & Background Paper - After using for watercoloring, don't discard the water and residue. Use it to paint or sponge on cardstock. Or, let the water dry out leaving the Pearl Ex/gum arabic. You can just add water at another time to use again.

Stamping with Pearl Ex - Mix the Pearl Ex with gum arabic and water. Using a wide paint brush, paint the Pearl Ex onto your stamp. Works best with solid stamps.  Or simply rub Pearl Ex onto your stamp surface & stamp on paper.  Spray seal to fix it.  For dramatic effects….stamp on dark colored cardstock using clear embossing ink.  Brush Pearl Ex on the ink…it sticks.  Seal with spray sealer.

Pearl Ex & Layer Embossing - After 3 to 4 layers of embossing ink and powder, stamp image into last hot layer (coat stamp first with clear embossing ink).  After cooling, rub Pearl Ex into crevices. Also, you can sprinkle the Pearl Ex on the last layer before heating.

Pearl Ex & Chalking - Use Pearl Ex dry, like a chalk. Rub it on the cardstock, with your finger, to create a metallic sheen and to highlight. Spray seal it with a acrylic sealer or even hairspray works .

Pearl Ex & Mica Tiles - Mix Pearl Ex with Perfect Paper Adhesive and put a dollop on the back of a mica tile. You can use more than one color. Smush the tile around on the cardstock, add glitter, mica flakes, beads, etc. to embellish. The mica tile can be embossed before using - looks really cool with fish or other more masculine images.

Pearl Ex Brushed - Stamp image with an Encore Pigment pad onto dark cardstock. Using a soft brush (cosmetic brushes work great), apply Pearl Ex gently to the image, using one or several colors (clean brush between colors).  Use the soft brush to gently brush off excess Pearl Ex. If you mixed Pearl Ex colors, save it to use with embossing, etc. Seal with acrylic sealer.

Pearl Ex & Stampin’ Emboss Enamel - Make a “tile” consisting of several layers of enamel on a surface (cardstock, shrink plastic, etc.).  Brush some Pearl Ex on between layers, if desired, to add color.  After heating the last layer, while it’s still hot, stamp an image into the tile.  Use clear or colored pigment on your stamp to avoid damaging it & to help keep it from sticking.  Add a dusting of Pearl Ex for highlights.

Pearl Ex & Paperclay
Rub Pearl Ex on to create highlights.  Spray with acrylic sealer.
 

REVERSE STENCIL – REVERSE MASK

Directions:
Find a stamp with a large open area (ex: cauldron (Happy Fright Night) or jar (Jar of Fun)
Stamp this image on a piece of scratch paper.  Cut out the open area, on the “outline” of the image, with a craft knife.  You now have a “stencil” of the rubber stamp!

1.  Stamp the image on front of the card.
2.  Place your stencil over the stamped image….aligning the stencil on the image.
3.  Take the next stamp image & stamp it in the stenciled image.
Remove the stencil….you have now stamped the larger image to fit inside the stamped image on your card.
 

PAPERCLAY

BACKGROUND FUN

Wax Paper Resist
Take a piece of wax paper and crumple it up,  open, and crumple some more. Smooth out the wax paper but leave wrinkles. To iron and create your resist paper layer as follows: white paper, glossy paper (glossy side up), I use post card size pieces, the wax paper, another piece of white paper. Iron, using dry iron, cotton setting. Next brayer over the piece of glossy paper and watch the resist pattern emerge.  Try different colors of cardstock for different effects!!

Fusible Web Background
Take a piece of fusible webbing and cut it slightly smaller then the piece of cardstock you are going to use it on. Hold it down at one edge and use your heat gun to melt it a bit so it will stick to the cardstock. A few holes and patterns will begin to form. Don't melt it too much. Then sprinkle all over with embossing powder. You can use one color of embossing powder or several colors. Then heat again moving your heating gun around and around. Patterns and holes will begin to appear and be embossed on the cardstock. Don't hold the heat gun too close or in one place for too long or you will lose some of the nice patterns the webbing forms.

Spiral Background
Take a paper towel and fold in half, again, and again until you have a long narrow folded strip of paper towel. Now take this strip and roll up carefully and secure with a rubberband. Make sure the spiral is even. Ink up the spiral and use just as you would a stamp to create a background.

Rubberband Background
Take a bunch of rubberbands and band together creating a tassel. Cut off the end and you have a wonderful background tool. Try using wider rubberbands but any size will work. Dab into an ink pad and just whack onto a piece of cardstock.

Metallic Backgrounds
Ooze metallic markers on a pallet and dab sponge into metallic juice and dab it all over black cardstock.

Starry Night Background
Apply about 3 drops of Embossing fluid to a clean toothbrush. Turn the brush upside down and use your finger to spray the embossing fluid onto the cardstock. Use a very light hand. You will find that you have a lot more than you expect. Pour embossing powder over, dump and heat.

Salt Background
Spray matte cardstock liberally with water. While still wet, run a brayer loaded with dye ink over the cardstock. Cover with sea salt. If necessary, spray more water on. Allow to dry. When dry, brush the sea salt off.

Polished Stone using Refill Inks
instructions by Rhonda Neill
Here's how I do my polished stone.  It's so easy. I like to use Ancient
Page reinkers because they dry fast and are fade resistant.  I also use Krylon
brand metallic pens, they come in gold, silver and copper.

I soak a cotton ball or make up round (not a sponge-a cottony thiny I
buy at pic n save) in regular rubbing alcohol then put 2 drops of ancient
page ink.  You can use 2 different colors or the same.  I like Foxglove
which matches our Lovely Lilac or Pink Passion (which matches
Clearsnaps Primrose).

Dot a few dots of Krylon pen onto white glossy paper. Immediately
start dabbing the cotton ball onto the krylon dots/paper and cover
the glossy paper, adding dots of krylon as you go.  Experiment with 3
colors if you like but I usually stop with 2.

You can stamp on this sheet.  You can emboss on this or spray with
webbing and use as a background.

You can seal it or not.  A little bit of metallic color may rub off but it
doesn't affect the image.  It has beautiful reflective qualities to it and
looks very rich and vibrant.  I just love it and it's so incredibly easy!!

Polished Stone using Radiant Pearls
submitted by Russell White
This is so easy and looks like a  million dollars. Everyone loves doing
this, because everything turns out beautiful.
I use 3-4 colors of Radiant Pearls.  Put a small amount on an old  CD.  Use
either a sponge, cotton ball or one of those flat circle  makeup applicator
pads--or all three.  Dip the sponge/cotton ball/pad  into rubbing alcohol--
depending on the desired look, you want it to  be moist but not dripping.
Then dip the sponge/cotton ball/pad into  one of the colors of radiant
pearls and apply to coated cardstock.   Have fun dapping, swirling,
stroking, streaking.  Add a second color-- use another sponge/cotton
ball/pad.  Then take a Kyrlon Pen and add  some gold/silver/bronze
accents.  Add a third with another  sponge/cotton ball/pad, color mixing
the metallic color into your creation.  Go wild, go creative--swirl, dab,
streak, stroke.  Let  dry.  Takes about 10-15 minutes, depending on the
amount of color you  have laid down.  Metallic will be fully dry in 24
hours--just be  careful not to rub too much until then.

You can also sprinkle some salt on your creation for an interesting  affect.
After it dries, brush salt off.

Also, you can spritz with rubbing alcohol for a water color effect.

I suggest that you wear disposable gloves to protect your hands.
Once you start--you will not be able to quit.

You can use this for backgrounds, you can emboss on it after it  dries,
you can stamp on it after it dries.  Punch it and glue the punch pieces
to your work, or take the punched background and mount on solid
color cardstock.
 

ACRYLIC PAINT

WALL STAMPING

You can apply acrylic paint to your image in a few different ways.  Try whatever works for you!
A.  Put paint on a paper plate.  Take a sponge brush & grab a little paint.  Sponge paint onto stamp.
B.  Take a damp sponge & place on a paper plate.  Put paint on a the sponge to use as a “stamp pad”.
C.  Fold felt up & put paint on the felt.....use this as a “stamp pad”.

1.  Apply paint to stamp & gently stamp the wall with your image.  If it messes up....have baby wipes on hand to IMMEDIATELY get the paint off the wall.  Try again.
 

WINDOWPANE

COLLAGE

Here are examples to get you started:
Worn Out or Cheap Playing Cards * Buttons * Scraps of Ribbon, String and Cord * Beads & Old Costume Jewelry  * Scraps of Colored Paper * Cancelled Postage Stamps (soak off paper in water before using) * Sales Tags * Old Road Maps * Cancelled Tickets

The second step is to alter & manipulate those materials….papers maybe sniped or torn & objects can be aged.

To alter color & shading, you can do several things:
A traditional method of coloring & toning would be to add a thin wash of watercolor paint to the paper or object being used.  Any black or white images will be infused with a thin transparent color.
Or
Direct to Paper techniques are ideal for “aging” paper or objects & can also be used to emphasize the torn edges of a piece of paper….
Browns & Blacks are good for simulating age & Gold, used sparingly can create a translucent layer of shimmer.
Or
For the greatest amount of control ink can be transferred from the pad to a sponge or stipple brush onto your card or object.
Keep layers translucent, so that the original colors beneath are hinted at, adds depth & delicacy to a collage.

The third step is to layer papers…varying them in size & shape.  Paste them together to form a patchwork.  Edges of paper could be randomly torn or neatly cut.

The final step is stamping.  Creative combinations of images are at the very heart of collage.
 

CERAMIC STAMPING

Instructions:
1. Prepare the ceramic surface by washing it with warm soapy water.  Allow to dry completely before decorating.
2. Apply a small amount of paint to a pottery sponge, tapping the excess paint on paper towels.
3. Press sponge onto the ceramic piece with a small amount of pressure.  Repeat until object is covered, allowing some of the white ceramic to show through.  This has created a background.  (You may leave the background white & simply stamp all over the object.)
4. Apply paint to a sponge & tap your stamp onto the sponge.
5. Gently press the stamp onto the ceramic piece to prevent sliding and smudging.
 (If smudging occurs, wipe the area clean with a solvent based cleaner and reapply paint.)
6. Spray frame with a sealant to prevent chipping.
Variations:
Add texture to ceramic pieces by stamping your images in pigment ink & embossing with different colored powders.  Gently wipe the finished piece with a soft cloth to remove excess embossing powder before sealing.
 

PUNCHES

• Take a 3” square piece of cardstock & punch the middle of it.  You’ve made a stencil.  Use pigment inks or dye-based inks to sponge through.
• Make a stencil as stated above & put the stencil on your skin.  Apply an automatic tanning lotion through the stencil to make a “Tan Tattoo” for summer fun!
• The rectangle punch is great to thread ribbons….it’s so much easier to thread it through than a tiny hole punch.
• Stamp up a whole bunch of images on sticker paper….take the Jumbo Circle Punch to make your own circular stickers.
• Make your own “Hand Stamped By” Stickers to use or give as gifts….Stamp them on sticker paper & punch out with the Jumbo Circle Punch.
• The Jumbo Circle Punch could be great for making a circular window in a card.
• Punch out the face of the Kraft Brown Gingerbread Man shaped die-cut.  Put a picture behind it….try using other die-cuts using this method!
• Take the Jumbo Punch & punch out photos of your kids & family…..attach them to a card or scrapbook page.  Draw or attach embroidery thread to make them look as though they were balloons flying in the air.
• Take the Jumbo Punch to punch out birdhouse “doors” , to punch out the middle of a large sunflower, etc.
• Punch large holes out of Yo Yo Yellow cardstock & you have the beginnings of a Swiss Cheese card.
• Make confetti out of some of the smaller punches & place a bunch in cards.
• Fall Stars – take punched out stars & punch a small hole in them.  Thread a ribbon through them & have them at the end of each ribbon.  Tie a knot at the top…..it’s as if the stars are “falling” from the sky.
• Punch hearts on the front of a card.  In the inside, behind where the hearts show through, glue glitter for a shimmering effect.
• Punch a large circle on the front of the card…..stamp things on the inside that will be peeking out…animals, kids, etc.
• When making a border of punched out & glued shapes onto card….have some off the edges & crop them in half.  Just as if you would stamp some images off the paper….do this with paper punches.  It’s more appealing to the eye.
• Punch out 3 paw prints, hearts, etc on a strip of cardstock.  Corrugate it for added texture.  Slip a fine ribbon & tie it in the center.
• Fold a corner down, like at the top of a card….fold it so that is folds onto your other layer of cardstock.  On that fold punch out a small shape.  The other layer of cardstock will be a different color & it will show though.  Adds a little zip to your card.
• Take the Jumbo Punch & punch out on yellow cardstock – stamp happy faces on them.
• Ladybug: punch one Red circle, and a Black circle. Cut black in half & layer on red. Use smaller circles for dots and head of ladybug.
• Port holes or little windows to the inside of the card. Make flowers (ala Mary Englebreight).
• Stamp the Christmas ornament stamp from Celebrate the Season, and attaching faces to them punched from photos. Be looking for the right size photos of your family now for this season.
• For a hole in the front of a card (usually upper or lower right side) and have a vellum butterfly inside, or something "peeking" out of it.
• For Christmas punch out the front of the card to look like tree balls - inside of the card place pictures so the look like they are the tree ball.
• Halloween - stamp the trick-or-treaters from a Haunting We Will Go, punch the hole at the ghost's head and put a seasonally wrapped circle chocolate (like coin chocolate) on inside and it fits perfect and comes through to the front. Christmas chocolate coins too with celebrate the season.
• 3 holes on the front of the card with the Cuddles and Tickles baby "peeking" out from the inside. Party Animals peeking through the holes.  Kids at Play giggling girl's face inside the holes.
• Cut along the edge of a card with decorative scissors.  Take the 1/16" circle punch & go along that edge….for a pretty lace look.
• The 1/8” size circle punch is the perfect punch to thread smaller ribbon through….when tying a bow, you don’t see the hole.  It’s the perfect size.
• Soften the edges of photos using the corner rounder punch.

Punches for Borders:
1. Use punches to make a decorative border.  Remove sides from corner punches with a screwdriver or edge of scissors. Insert screwdriver into opening and pull towards you to free one side at a time. Do not worry they are designed to come apart and go back together again.

2. Now draw a line on a piece of vellum or card stock and punch on the edge of cardstock carefully lining up edge with pencil line. Punch once, now move to right of first punch lining up the edge with the center of the first punch and the top with your pencil line. Continue to edge of cardstock.

3. Now with hole punches punch various holes in the punch outs to make a lace design. This would work well with the clover corner punch and the tiny scallop and corner lace punches.

Vellum & Punches
1. Punch shapes out of brightly colored paper (anything from the Bold Brights Line plus Summer Sun and Lime Green etc) and glue to white cardstock then cover with a vellum overlay for a softer color appearance.
2. Glue punched shapes to the backside of vellum tea-light shades for “wine glasses”, etc.

Tips for Better Punching
1.  Punch through foil & then lubricate a sticking punch by punching through wax paper several times.
2.  Place a sticking punch in the freezer for 20 minutes to contract & shrink the metal parts.
3.  New punches will loosen up with continued use.
4.  Tap a sticking punch on the table top to release the mechanism.
5.  Stand up when punching to gain more leverage, and always punch down on a hard surface rather than "in the air".
6.  Use the punch upside down for more precise placement, and for even more added leverage.
7.  The border punches are made to punch paper, not cardstock, so they are somewhat difficult. place the punch (with paper inside) on   the floor & step on it to get it to punch through.
 

FABRICO FABRIC STAMPING

Instructions:
1. Wash your fabric without fabric softener, this is to remove 'sizing'.
2. Dry fabric without using a fabric sheet softener.
3. Iron your fabric so you have a nice smooth surface to work with.
4. Find a hard surface to stamp on.
5. If you are stamping on a shirt or bag (or anything with 2 layers), you will need a piece of cardboard to place between the 2 layers of fabric, to avoid it going through the top layer onto the second layer.
6. Ink stamp by tapping the stamp onto the pad. Check for nice, even coverage. Do not press or rub, as this puts too much ink on the stamp.
7. Position onto fabric and apply firm, even pressure. Hold in place for 30-45 seconds. Coarser fabrics like canvas require more pressure.
8. Complete your design.
9. Allow to air dry.
10. Iron either side of fabric to heat-set ink.
11. Wait at least 48 hours before washing.

Cleaning Up:
Clean stamps as soon as possible. Two clean up pads are ideal. Keep one wet and the other dry. Do not let the ink dry on the stamps.
Tips:
Plan design first; play with stamps on paper or an old piece of material. Odd numbers of images, patterning or color are most appealing.   If you make a mistake, wash fabric immediately with soap and water.  Heat set outline before coloring in with Fabrico markers. Otherwise, you will smear the ink.  Use Fabrico markers to touch up stamped image if necessary.  Use sponge daubers or sponge to create a colored background.  Wash stamped fabric inside out, in cool water and line dry to keep colors their brightest.

FABRICO/Fading on Fabric Solutions:
1.  Wash fabric without using fabric softener or dryer sheets.
2.  Stamp your images (bold works best).  Make sure you keep the stamp pressed down for a little while.  You have to give the ink time to sink into the fabric.  (Some people let it dry overnight before heat setting.)

Heat Setting – 3 different ways
A.  After you stamp (& color if needed), place a sheet of wax paper onto the image.  With a warm iron, iron the wax paper onto the fabric.  This seals in the colors (this technique was done when “air brushed” T-Shirts were in).  You may also iron the wax paper onto the inside of the shirt too.

B.  Put your fabric in the dryer on high/cotton setting 15 to 30 minutes.

C.  Heat set it with an iron, making sure it is warm enough.  Keep the iron moving & in an area for a good 30 seconds.  Check carefully so it won’t burn.
 

DYED RIBBON

BLEACH PAINTING ON CARDSTOCK

BLEACHING BACKGROUNDS

BLEACH STAMPING

Bleach Stamping on Fabric
1. Testing:  Test the reaction of bleach on fabric you want to use before you spend a lot of time stamping.  Some fabrics don’t bleach well.  One reason to test fabric is because it won’t always be white when bleached!  Black fabric (& cardstock) in particular can change to many colors.  You’ll see a reaction fairly quick….though gel takes longer than liquid bleach.  Cheaper fabric is usually better because it’s less colorfast.
2. Safety:  You should do this in a well ventilated area.  Please be careful if you have respiratory problems.  As far as stamps go, there shouldn’t be a problem using bleach on your stamps.  Clean them well when done.
3. Gel vs. Liquid Bleach:  Liquid bleach tends to bleed & spread.  The gel stays put, but takes longer to react & the color change isn’t always dramatic.
4. Stamps:  Solid or fairly simple stamps are recommended on fabric.
Instructions:
1. Use a sponge brush to “paint” gel to the stamp.  Thinly coat the surface, but try not to gum up the cracks, since this can obscure details.  If you are doing a garment, remember to put something between the front and back.
2. Stamp your image onto the fabric firmly (Bold images work best).  Remove the stamp and let dry or heat with a heat tool.  (Note:  By using the heat tool to dry the detergent, this will help make it so that it doesn’t smear while doing the rest of the fabric.
3. Once you’ve stamped your images, wait and watch.  The gel is weaker than liquid so the color change takes longer & sometimes not as pronounced.  Even so, you may like a lesser change.
4. If you like what you see, rinse the piece in water to remove the gel.  Then iron it dry, if you’re in a hurry or put it in the dryer.  This stops the bleaching reaction.  Another way to stop the bleaching process, when you like what you see, is to use vinegar or baking soda.  This neutralizes the bleach.  Whatever is easier for you.
Uses:
1. If it’s a garment that you’ve stamped, rinsed, & dried….it’s ready for use at this time.
2. If it’s a bleached stamped swatch, you can use fusible webbing (wonder-under) and iron it to a card or to attach it to a garment.  If attaching it to a garment you can sew around the edges, fringe if you like &/or use wonder-under or sew it on.
 

BLEACH STAMPING/CARDSTOCK

The containers people have used for their paper towel pad or felt pads have been the bottom of Tupperware, a sandwich size Glad container or recycle a styrofoam meat tray. Keeping bleach in a spritzer bottle or container….you’ll notice that bleach will become cloudy with time.  This is the bleach reacting to light (notice that bleach bottles are opaque).  Just pour out unused bleach & refresh your container when ready to use again.

Experiment for what works right for you & practice.  When using the paper towel pad or felt pad…..dab (not push the stamp too hard in the bleach) your stamp onto the bleach pad a few times to make sure you have it wet & covered.  Stamp your images onto the cardstock.  Hold the stamp down for several seconds, so that the detail of the stamp gets impressed onto the paper.  If you want a lighter/less detailed look…hold the stamp down not for very long.  Watch the change.  Clean your stamps immediately after using them & dry…..Stampin’ Mist is a cleaner for this.
 

LEATHER STAMPING

Variations and Tips:
1.  Select stamps and colors to coordinate with photograph (if doing a frame) or room decor.
2.  Stamp small pieces of leather in other colors and cut into different shapes. Adhere leather pieces, beads and buttons to photo frame for a three-dimensional effect.
 

WOOD STAMPING

WOODBURNING IMAGES

Instructions:
1. Lightly sand wood to make surface smooth.  Use tack cloth to remove any loose dust.
2. Ink stamp with dye-based ink & stamp onto surface of wood.  Re-ink stamp after each impression.
3. Use wood burning tool to trace over stamped impression.  The image will turn brown.  The longer the tip is left on the wood, the darker brown the image will become.  (chisel tip)
4. Add color to stamped, burned image using oil pencils.  Blend the colors with cotton swabs.  Spray seal.
 

DECOUPAGE/WOOD

 Instructions:
1. Sand the wood with sandpaper, then wipe it lightly with a tack cloth.
2. Basecoat your wood object with stain or acrylic paint.  Let dry & apply another coat if necessary.
Stamping/Embossing/Coloring
3.    Stamp & emboss images on paper.
4.    Color in images with watercolor, pencils….whatever the medium of your choice.
5.    Cut out images & see how you want to arrange on wood surface.
Decoupage/Finishing
6.    Use decoupage glue to paste your images in place.  Let dry thoroughly.
7. Apply several layers of decoupage varnish to the surface of the wood object, allowing each layer to dry before adding the next, until all images are embedded in the varnish & the surface of the wood is smooth & even.
 

PULL CARD – MOVING CARD

1. Choose the image that you want to slide on the card.  Stamp it on a scarp of cardstock, color & cut out.
2. Stamp & color on main card.
3. Cut a narrow strip on your card (about ¼” wide) where you want the image to slide.  DO NOT cut all the way to the edge of the card.
4. Cut a narrow strip of cardstock (no wider than you image & long enough to fold around the cut strip on the main card.)  Fold this narrow strip around the cut strip on the main card & attach it to itself with Monoadhesive.  This attached piece should slide freely across the cut strip.  It needs to be a fairly close fit around the cut strip or else the image will wobble as you slide it.
5. Attach your image to the sliding piece on the front of the card with double-sided, heavy duty mounting tape.
6. Attach a piece of sting, ribbon or yarn to the sliding piece on the back of the card.  BE SURE that it is not attached to anything else.  You can use the heavy duty mounting tape for this too.  The ribbon will extend several inches past both ends of the card.
7. Seal a backing over the working parts to hide your secrets.  As you glue your main card onto the backing, leave unglued spaces for you ribbon to pull freely.
 

GIFT BAGS

Problem –Rolling over the handles of the gift bags with the wheel stamps…you get white gaps.  Solutions:
1.  Roller below the handles only:
2.  You can take card stock the width of your bag by about 6-8 inches, fold it in half, (with of bag sides together). Following the fold line, cut a slit in the center of the fold, large enough to slip handles through. Looks like a roof on the bag.

Lunch Sacks:
Fold down the top of the bag at least twice.  Punch holes on the fold in the middle.  Thread with raffia, organza ribbon, etc & make a bow.  Or you can attach handles to your lunch sacks “after” you have stamped & decorated them.  Make handles out of unopened paper twist & tape inside.  Reinforce bottom of the bag with a piece of cardboard., to keep the lunch sack/gift bag from crumpling in.
 

MARSHMALLOW STAMPING

STAMPING IN CHOCOLATE

Molded Chocolates
1. Melt some chocolate chips & spoon them into the chocolate mold.  Tap the mold on the counter several times to shake out the air bubbles.
2. Cool the chocolate in your freezer. This helps the chocolate to set more quickly & makes it easier to remove.  After the chocolate is solid, remove it from the freezer & warm the chocolate with the heat tool….continue just like in the instructions for the chocolate bars above.
 

CAKE STAMPING #1

CAKE STAMPING #2

(I have found that the Stampin’ Pads are a lot easier to use!)  Place your stamped rice paper on your iced cake.  After a while the rice paper will dissolve into the icing & only the image will remain visible.  You can choose to decorate the edge of the rice paper to sore of “frame’ the image.  A shell border looks nice.

*You can stamp directly onto buttercream icing.  First ice & smooth your cake.  Allow the buttercream to set for at least a few hours & preferable overnight.  The icing should have a “crust” on it.  GENTLY stamp your image onto the buttercream.  Color with diluted paste colors, (dilute with vodka or lemon extract – remember alcohol will evaporate).  Or use your Stampin’ Pads in the colors needed, no coloring may be necessary.

You can stamp an image on paper. Trace the image on the backside on the paper because you will need the reverse image.  Cover the backside of the picture with waxed paper.  Use a decorating bag filled with clear piping gel (available at cake & craft stores) & a #1 round decorating tip to copy the image.  Invert the wax paper, piping gel side down, & place it on your iced & smoothed cake.  Gently press around the image, pushing the gel onto the icing on the cake.  Remove the waxed paper.  Outline the image on the cake with icing.  Fill in with colored icing – let me recommend stars for the beginning cake decorator
With any of these methods practice first.  It might take a while before you are comfortable with any of them.
 

BLENDER PENS

Blending Techniques on Embossed Images:
1. With the tip of your water based markers, lay a hint of color on the actual embossed line of an image. This color is now sitting on the surface of the embossed line. The embossed lines serve as a palette, making it easier to move the color, thus eliminating a hard line created by the marker. Working in a circular motion and in small areas, use the Blender pen to pull out the marker color into the open area of the design. When this process is completed a light application of color will appear on the image. To prevent the color from appearing too washed out, continue to add more color using the marker and the blender until the desired depth of the color is achieved.
2. Start with lighter colors and then gradually add darker colors.
3. Limit the colors to be used. Three basic colors differing in intensity, plus variations in value, will give life and interest to a stamped image.
Helpful Blending Tips:
1. Place several short strokes of water based marker color onto a white glass bowl or Styrofoam plastic plate/palette. Using the blender pen, pick up the color and apply it to the stamped image.
2. When working an intense color, to lighten that color, touch the tip of the marker to the tip of the blender. By touching the tip of the blender with the tip of the marker, the marker color that has transferred to the blender tip will be lighter in value.
3. Apply the blender to the stamped image first working in small areas at a time. This preps the area and allows one to apply various marker colors to blend directly onto the card.
4. Before changing colors, wipe the blender clean on a scrap piece of paper.  Be careful not to pick up too much color. If there is too much, simply wipe the blender tip on a scrap piece of paper before coloring the image.
5. For a realistic blended look, layer color on top of color. For ex: Start with marker color (Lavender Lace #6930-62 and add Orchid Opulence #6920-42) or blend the colors on a palette, then apply to the image.

Blender Pen & Watercolor Pencils
The blender pen is perfect for blending watercolor pencils, eliminating the need for water & a paintbrush.  The colors intensify & blend smoothly.  The paper does not buckle from being over-moistened.  Take each color you are going to use & make a palette by scribbling a little color on a separate piece of paper with all the colors, then take the blender pen & pick up the color & apply to the image.

Blender Pen & Chalk
Blend & moisten chalk colors with the blender pen to intensify colors & work the chalk into the surface of the paper.  You can apply a little to an area you are coloring or use an applicator & take the blender pen tip to it to pick up the color, then apply to image.  It will not need spray fixative to remain in place., the blender pen sets the chalk.

Blender Pen & Ink Pads
Stamp an image using a waterbased dye pad.  Use the blender pen to lightly stroke the outline color into the inside areas.  This will result in an image with several tones of the same color.

Blender Pen & Markers
1.  Stamp an image by coloring the rubber die of the stamp with waterbased makers.   Pull color form the outline to the center areas by stroking with the blender pen.
2.  Use a blender pen to apply marker ink which has been scribbled onto a palette, blending colors just like you would blend watercolor paints with a brush.
3.  Use a blender pen to soften the stroke marks left behind when you have colored an area with markers.

Blender Pen & Watercolor Paints
Dip the blender pen directly into the watercolor paint palette & pick up the color.  Start coloring your image.
 

BLENDER PEN – REFILL RECIPE

Carefully remove either end of your marker with pliers and a light twisting motion. Add a few drops of the liquid to the marker. (More is not better here. Too much liquid will result in a runny mess) Replace the tip.  Lay marker on its side overnight.  SU says that our blender pens can not be refilled, however many people have tried it & it works.
 

EMBOSSING –BASIC HEAT EMBOSSING – THERMAL EMBOSSING

Paper Warping during Embossing ?
Try and hold the embossing gun farther from the paper. If that doesn't work try to heat the paper from under instead of on top.  Or you can place your card on a small wire cake-rack while heating the EP. The card/paper *won't* curl and your hand won't get burned.
 

DIRECT TO PAPER

2.  Stamp all the images with darker color ink.  At this point you have 2 options: A.  Let it dry as is & consider your artwork finished.  B.  Emboss the entire surface with Clear powder for an enameled effect.
 

RESIST EMBOSSING

JOSEPH’S COAT – RESIST EMBOSSING

RESIST – INK RESIST

SLATE STAMPING

1.  Sponge a little acrylic paint on the slate first.  Slate can be a little slick this helps the ink & color to adhere.
2.  You can stamp with Fabrico & heat set.  Warning - the rock absorbs a lot of heat & stays hot for several minutes.  Let it cool or you could burn yourself.
3.  You can color in images with watercolor pencils or watered down acrylic paint.
4.  Seal with a clear acrylic sealer spray.
 

MULTI-LAYER

1.  Lightly coat surface of desired cardstock with embossing ink.  Tap gently with the embossing pad or rubbing surface.  Take care not to get a thick coating or it will “oil” up on you.
2.  Emboss with clear powder.  Repeat 2-4 times.  Don’t be afraid to experiment with colors & metallics, etc.
3.  Take your image & ink it up in either the tinted embossing pad or to add pizzazz, ink up your image with a metallic pigment ink pad.  Either of these will act as a releasing agent to get your stamp out of the hot embossing enamel.
4.  Set stamp aside & do final embossing layer then while it’s hot, embed the stamp into the enamel.  Wait a minute, then pull to release.  Your image should be “embossed” into the enamel

Variation:
1.  Ink up image with metallic pigment ink & set aside.
2.  Lay down layers of complimentary pigment ink colors & emboss with clear powder....repeat 3-4 times.
3.  Stamp image into hot final layer of enamel.
 

EMBOSS PUFF

Different Effects with Stampin’ Emboss Puff:
Pastels:  You can apply the pastels to the image after it has been heated.  The pastels adhere to the puffy image resulting in more dramatic colors.
Watercolors:  You can watercolor over or around the Puff giving it a nice soft effect when you don’t want dramatic dark outlines.
Brayer:  The sponge brayer works beautifully over the Puff.  It works both dry and wet to create a lovely background, while the Puff resists color, remaining white and fluffy.
 

TOTAL EMBOSSED BACKGROUND

RAINBOW EMBOSSING

EMBOSSING ON METAL

Instructions:
1. Wear gloves to protect hands from being cut on metal.  Cover sharp edges of metal with masking tape.
2. Determine size of metal (for embellishing wood box)
3. Use pencil & ruler & lightly mark wrong side of metal.
4. Use scissors to cut metal to desired size & shape.
5. Wipe metal with soft cloth to remove dust & fingerprints.
6. Ink stamp with embossing ink & stamp image onto metal.
7. Sprinkle image with embossing powder.
8. Tap excess off and reserve.  Use small paintbrush to brush away any unwanted powder from metal.
9. Use heat tool to melt embossing powder.  Lay metal piece on table or hold with glove, as metal will become hot.
10. Adhere stamped metal with silicone adhesive (to wood box & brass tacks)
 

LIP PRINTS

EMBOSSING TERRACOTTA

STAMPIN’ EMBOSS ENAMEL - OVER EMBOSSING

1.  Apply a thin layer of clear embossing ink over the entire surface to be treated.
2.  Pour enamel onto surface, insuring it’s completely covered, tap off the excess.
3.  Melt with your heat tool.  Immediately, while it’s still hot, pour more enamel on top & heat again.
4.  You can do this process 2-3 times….depending on the texture you would like to have.  A single layer of embossing enamel gives a bumpy texture, like water drops on glass. To build up texture and dimension, add a second coat in the same manner. A third coat produces a surface as smooth as glass.
 

Tips:
1. Place the surface that you will be embossing inside a shoe box or something you have on hand.  The powder flies everywhere, this way you’ll have more control.  Or to apply a heavy coat of enamel, heat from beneath to prevent it from blowing away in the melting process.
2. Many people put there embossing powders in containers other than the jars that hold them.  A place Tupperware container works nice.  This way you can spoon or dip your work in the embossing powder.  Eliminating the need to put it back in a small jar & getting powder all over the place.
 

CLEAR ON CLEAR EMBOSSING

VELLUM EMBOSSING

2.  Color the design from behind for a soft subtle stained glass look with markers or colored pencils.  Mop up extra ink & let dry.  You can color the image on top of the vellum for a bright vibrant look too.
 

DOUBLE  OR TRIPLE EMBOSSING (using regular clear embossing powder)

Method #1
Rub clear or tinted embossing ink directly on the paper, pour powder, tap off, heat & repeat 5-7 times.
After your layers are built up, take the stamp of your choice & ink with pigment ink, color of your choice, set inked stamp aside.
Heat embossed layers until good & melted.  Quickly & firmly press inked stamp into the melted goo.  Hold there until melted area cools.  Gently pull your stamp out.
Method #2
Stamp a bold image stamp in pigment ink & emboss in color of your choice.
Rub clear embossing ink over image.  Take a pinch of various colors of embossing powders & sprinkle here & there over image.  Tap off, & heat.
Don’t worry about going out of the lines in your image.  Do this until the desired colored effect is reached.  Then finish off with a layer or two of clear powder.
Cut out image & mount with foam tape to card.
Method #3
Stamp image(s) in clear ink & emboss in clear powder.
Rub various colored ink pads over the entire piece of paper & emboss with clear powder.
Finish with one or tow layers of clear powder using clear ink.
 

WINDOW CARDS

1.  Stamp a large open image onto the front of the glossy notecard.  Stamp other coordinating designs or words on the cover as well.
2.  Cut out an opening with the craft knife, in the large open image on your card….so you can see through to the inside of the card.
3.  Take the extra piece of glossy paper that is the same size as the front of your card….& stamp a scene.
4.  Open the folded card & place double-stick tape around the back of the opening.
5.  Cut a piece of the clear acetate at least ½” larger than the opening in the card all the way around.  Lay it over the opening, sticking it down on the tape.  Make sure it extends over the opening.
6.  Put double stick tape around the edges of the scene on the other paper with the scene stamped & colored on it.
7.  Put double-stick tape again around the edges of the cut opening over the acetate.
8.  If you want more space, put mounting tape (double-sided foam tape) on the card between the tape layers.  This is optional, but it allows the glitter & confetti to float around.
 

BRAYERING

Brayers & Markers
You can use markers on the brayers to create fantastic backgrounds. Using a marker, apply ink directly onto the brayer. You can draw stripes, dots, zig-zags, or whatever you're in the mood for. Repeat the design using different color markers. When you are done creating the design on the brayer, roll the brayer onto paper. The design will transfer to the paper.  Use glossy card stock for the brightest colors. Use matte paper for a softer look.

Brayering a Rainbow Background
Ink up with the rubber snap-in-brayer on a Kaleidacolor rainbow pad.  Roll the brayer onto glossy cardstock for best results.  Roll back & forth for complete coverage.  This will be the basis for other techniques found on this list.

Brayer: Repeating An Image – Reverse Image
For a background, ink up a stamp such as a cloud, tree, or flower.  Roll your brayer over the stamp 2-3 times before reinking.  Repeat this process to ink up your brayer.  Roll over cardstock for a subtle background.  This is great for landscapes and florals.

Brayer  A Honeycomb Background
1.  Ink up your rubber brayer in More Mustard ink & roll over a piece of bubble wrap.

Brayer/ Rubberband Background
1.  Place rubberbands around an acrylic brayer....bands in different widths will give you different looks.